The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern that is designed as a made to measure and size inclusive crochet sweater pattern. Our patterns are beginner friendly and meant to be intuitive.
Whenever this crochet sweater is worn out, strangers often stop to ask where it was purchased. Personally, I love crocheted garments that shout out “homemade crochet (I love celebrating the fact that a piece of clothing was made slowly, self-made and is one of a kind)!
We are trying to keep all our crochet patterns free for everyone, when you access them online. We meet the costs of running this website through coffee donations at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet and ad revenue. When you buy us a cup of coffee, you buy us a cup of motivation. Thank you for keeping us motivated and inspired every day to keep designing free crochet patterns for you.
However the Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater is one that looks store bought and it may be due to the beautiful Primrose crochet stitch. It’s a very simple, beginner friendly stitch that is easy to follow and quick to crochet. The end result is stunning. To highlight the stitch even more, the sleeves are kept simple with primarily half double crochets further accentuating the primrose stitch in the main front and back panel.
If you have seen any of the other patterns on this blog, you can probably tell Kiks + Jack Crochet features a lot of boatneck designs. Boat necks are simple for beginners, flattering and super customizable. They are easy to crochet wide and off the shoulder, or tighter and on the shoulder. If you like boatneck designs check out the Easy Cozy Crochet Sweater and the Sea To Sky Laced Short Sleeve Crochet Top.
For the Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater, the neckline can be crocheted very wide. We raise it up and give it some thickness through a series of single crochets, double crochets and post stitches. It’s completely customizable so if you would prefer something less off the shoulder, its easy to change it to a tighter neckline and the free pattern below will show you how.
We used one of our favourite yarns for the colder months. It’s a weight 4/Medium/Worsted and you can find the details below in our crochet materials section. This yarn is 100% premium acrylic and it’s so soft and bouncy. By crocheting the Primrose stitch, it has sufficient drape so that the sweater isn’t too stiff and heavy. The end result is a sweater that is snuggly and warm with sufficient stretch to make it very comfortable!
We cropped the sweater (although we wouldn’t call this a crop) so it hit at the waistline. If you would like to crochet this super cropped or super long and oversized, it’s easy to do as the Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater pattern is made to measure.
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DESCRIPTION of The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater
The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater is a long sleeved sweater that is created primarily from two basic stitches – the single crochet, half double crochet and the double crochet. The neckline is wide and is slightly raised using front and back post stitching to give it a modern look. The sweater has ribbing at the base and ribbed cuffs on the sleeves. It’s designed to hit at the top of your hips however it can also be customized easily as a crop or oversized.
The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is beginner friendly and uses weight 4/worsted yarn.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES
The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” and size inclusive (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.
To use the Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from the top of your hips (or where you would like the sweater to end) up to the top of your shoulder at your collarbone.
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end – we typically crochet our sleeves past the wrist to the knuckles)
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist.
Standard Sizing (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust โ then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
Note: The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater is designed to be a loose fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE for The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater
Using a hook size 5 (US size 8), approximately 12 half double crochets across and 10 rows of half double crochet in 4โณ x 4โณ (10 cm x 10 cm).
Note the Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges. However we suggest you try to pick a yarn and hook that has a gauge similar to this version.
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater
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Yarn brand: Heartland by Lion brand yarn. Weight 4/Medium/Worsted. 142g per skein and 251 yards (or 230m) per skein.
You can also purchase Heartland by Lion brand yarn here on Amazon and we always check this for great deals.
Approximately 3.7 skeins or 520 grams and 920 yards (or 842m) used for Kiks + Jacks version (approximately S) with a finished width of 18 inches and a finished length of 18 inches.
Color used is Dry Tortugas.
5mm crochet hook (US size 8). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. However our absolute favourite, slightly more pricey crochet hooks are clover crochet hooks. You can buy then in a set or individually.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
ch-2 sp = chain 2 space (You are crocheting into the space created by the chain 2 from the previous row and not the stitch)
BLO = back loop only
sl st = slip stitch (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. Pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook)
fpdc = front post double crochet (Yarn over and insert your hook from the front side to the back side of your work around the double crochet – the post – from the previous row, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You will now have have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
bpdc = back post double crochet (Yarn over and insert your hook from the back side to the front side of your work around the double crochet – the post – from the previous row, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You will now have have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater
The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater is made by first crocheting a back panel and a front panel. You will crochet the panels bottom up. You will start by crocheting a wide ribbing at the base of your sweater followed by the rest of the back panel. You will then crochet an identical front panel. After testing out the perfect neckline width, you will crochet the neckline on both panels.
You will then crochet two separate sleeve panels starting with a ribbed cuff. Then you will seam the front panel and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam sleeves directly on to the panels. After seaming you will crochet a ribbing around the neck.
The stitch used in the Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater beginner friendly and primarily uses double crochets, half double crochets and single crochets.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT for The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater
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Crochet Pattern Instructions for The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater
Crochet the Back Panel Ribbing
ch 12
The height of our ribbing is approximately 2.5 inches. Based on our gauge this is 12 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc in entire st on the last st. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to HALF of your “Chest/Bust Measurement” + 1-2 inches.
Kiks + Jack Crochet example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around. Half of 32 inches = 16 inches. We keep repeating row 2 until the total length of the ribbing reaches 18 inches (16 + 2 = 18 inches)
Count the total number of rows.
Kiks + Jack Crochet example: We counted a total of 42 rows to achieve a length of 18 inches.
It’s a great time to check if you are completely happy with the width of the sweater before you crochet any further. Place the ribbing up against you to see if the width (length of ribbing) is right for you. If you would like it to be wider, crochet a few more rows. If you would like the ribbing to be tighter, then you can frog (unravel) a few rows.
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Back Panel
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing that you just crocheted.
To calculate the number of stitches that you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your ribbing | We have 42 rows in our ribbing |
| Multiply this by 1.5 (round up if necessary) | 42 X 1.5 = 63 stitches |
| If this number is NOT a multiple of 3 then increase it until it is a multiple of 3 (divides into 3 evenly). If this number is already a multiple of 3, then leave it as is. | 63 is a multiple of 3 so we keep it as is. |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch2, hdc into the first st, hdc across the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above. Turn
In Kiks + Jack Crochet example above we will crochet 63 half double crochets across the long side ribbing.
Kiks + Jack Crochet Tip: The hdc may seem a little squashed. This is normal. You may want to place some stitch markers across the ribbing at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 marks. Then divide the number of hdc stitches by 4 to give you an approximate idea of how many hdc you need to crochet in each quarter so you can ensure you are crocheting evenly.
Row 2: ch2, [1sc, ch2, 1sc] all into the 1st st, *sk 2st, [1sc, ch2, 1sc] in next st, rep from * across, ending with 1 hdc in last ch. Turn.
Row 3: ch3, *3dc in next ch-2 sp (the ch2 made in the previous row), rep from * across, ending with 1dc in top of tch. Turn
Kiks + Jack Crochet Tip: In the next row 4 you are effectively crocheting [1sc, ch2, 1sc] in the centre of the 3dc cluster from the previous row.
Row 4: ch2, *[1sc, ch2, 1sc] all in the 2nd dc of the 3dc cluster made in the previous row, rep from * across, ending with 1hdc in top of tch. Turn
Repeat rows 3-4 in that order until the back panel (including ribbing) is equal to your “Finished Length Measurement” – 2 inches. If you would like a deeper neckline you can increase this to 3-4 inches. Note that if you plan to crochet a very wide neckline you may not want this depth to be too low.
Make sure you finish on a row 3.
Fasten off.
Crochet the Front Panel
Repeat all the instructions under Back Panel Ribbing and Back Panel so that you have an identical front panel.
Measure the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel
We will now measure out the neckline for the two panels. Crocheting two panels first without the neckline allows you “try it on” (see below) and ensure you get the perfect neckline width before you crochet the neckline on to the two panels.
Measure 3-6 inches in from the left edge of the back panel and place a stitch marker after the cluster (we will be adjusting the exact inches that is right for you shortly). This will be the start of your neck opening. Count the number of clusters from the left edge up to the stitch marker. Count the same number of clusters on the right side of the back panel and place a stitch marker.
Kiks + Jack Crochet example: We wanted a very off the shoulder look and measured approximately 3 inches from the left side. We placed the stitch marker after the 3rd cluster and did the same on the right side, placing the stitch marker after the 3rd cluster from the right side.
Do the same on the front panel on both sides.
Attach the two panels together lining up the 4 stitch markers and secure the panels together with the stitch markers. Place the panels over your head and double check you are happy with the neck opening. If you would like it tighter then move the stitch markers closer to your neck ensuring you place the stitch marker at the end of a cluster not in the middle of a cluster. If you would like the neck opening wider, then move the stitch markers away from your neck.
Make sure it is the same distance (ie. same number of clusters) on either side and the same number of clusters on the front and back panel.
Keep in mind that you will be adding a ribbing to the neckline that is approximately 1-1.5 inches.
Crochet the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel
Start with the back panel and attach the yarn to the first stitch near the left shoulder.
Row 1: ch2, *[1sc, ch2, 1sc] all in the 2nd dc of the 3dc cluster made in the previous row, rep from * towards the stitch marker. End with [1sc, ch2, 1sc] in the middle dc in the cluster closest to the st marker and then 1hdc in the next st. Turn
Row 2: ch3, *3dc in next ch-2 sp (the ch2 made in the previous row), rep from * across towards the end, ending with 1dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 3: ch2, *[1sc, ch2, 1sc] all in the 2nd dc of the 3dc cluster made in the previous row, rep from * towards the end of row, ending with 1hdc in the tch. Turn
Repeat rows 2-3 until the length of your panel including the ribbing is equal to your “Finished Length Measurement”. For reference Kiks + Jack Crochet completed a total of 4 rows.
Fasten off.
Repeat Rows 1 – 4 (or more if you crocheted more) on the right side of the back panel, the left side of the front panel and the right side of the front panel.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel (Make 2)
We will now crochet the two sleeve panels starting with the cuff. Remember you will need to make two identical sleeve panels.
Note that we change the stitch pattern for the sleeves.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel Ribbed Cuff
ch 12
The height of our sleeve ribbing is approximately 2.5 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 12 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across. Turn.
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc in entire st on the last st. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until the ribbed cuff is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches. Make sure it fits comfortably and is not too tight.
Count the number of rows (we crocheted 20 rows).
Do not fasten off. Turn your ribbing. You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing.
Crochet the Main Sleeve Panel
To calculate the number of stitches across the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | K+J Example |
| Count the number of rows in the sleeve cuff | We counted 20 rows in our cuff |
| Double the number | 20 x 2 = 40 |
| Adjust the number upwards to ensure it is a multiple of 3 | 40 is not a multiple of 3 so we adjust this to 42 so that it is a multiple of 3 |
Row 1: ch2, hdc across the ribbing the total stitches calculated in the table above. Turn.
In Kiks + Jack Crochet example, we would crochet 42 hdc across the ribbing. It is going to be very tight, however this is normal. You may need to crochet 2hdc in to the same stitch to fit in all the stitches evenly.
Row 2: ch2, hdc in each st across until the end. Turn.
Row 3 – 6: repeat row 2
Row 7: ch2, [1sc, ch2, 1sc] all into the 1st st, *sk 2 st, [1sc, ch2, 1sc] in next st, rep from * across, ending with 1 hdc in last ch. Turn.
Row 8: ch3, *3dc in next ch-2 sp (the ch2 made in the previous row), rep from * across, ending with 1dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 9: ch2, *[1sc, ch2, 1sc] all in the 2nd dc of the 3dc cluster made in the previous row, rep from * across, ending with 1hdc in top of tch. Turn
Repeat rows 8 – 9 for approximately 5 more inches or until the sleeve reaches around the top of your forearm. End on a row 8.
Row A: ch2, hdc in each st across, hdc in tch until the end. Turn.
Row B: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc across until the last st. Turn
Optional Sleeve Width Increase: At this point measure the width of the sleeve panel. It needs to be as wide as the widest part of your arm which is typically your “upper arm measurement”. If you think you need to widen the sleeve panel, then in every other row add 2hdc in the 1st st and 2hdc in the last st. Keep measuring the width of the sleeve panel and when it is sufficient to cover the widest part of your arm, revert back to a regular Row B above. This increase is optional and it will depend on your body measurements and your gauge. For Kiks + Jack’s version we did not need to widen the sleeve any further.
Continue to repeat Row B until the total length of your sleeve panel, including the cuff, is equal to your “Arm Length Measurement”
Kiks + Jack Crochet will show you how to check the sleeve length again under “Assembly” so that you can ensure you have the perfect fit.
Fasten off.
Remember you need to crochet two identical sleeve panels.
Assembling the Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.
Kiks + Jack Crochet block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panel are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder. Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing together. With a yarn needle, seam the two panels together across the shoulders starting from the edge and across. Fasten off.
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Kiks + Jack Crochet Tip: It is a good time to check the length of your sleeve. You can “seam” it with a few locking stitch markers to the main panel. Try it on. If you would like the sleeve to be longer (eg. some like the cuff to be almost at the knuckles vs the wrist), you can remove the knot on your sleeve panel (where you fastened off) then add a few more rows on to your sleeve. Or you can reduce rows if you like your sleeves shorter by removing the knot first and pulling out (frogging) a few rows. Make sure you do the same on the second sleeve so they are identical.
When everything is perfect, using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (not to scale for illustrative purposes only)
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your sweater is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve. See second diagram below (not to scale for illustrative purposes only)
Fasten off.
Step 4: Add the ribbing to the neckline
Turn the sweater right side out. Attach a yarn to the side of the neckline.
Round 1: ch1, sc in the first st, sc evenly around the neckline into every st. You can crochet 2sc in large spaces and 1sc in regular stitches. The key is to keep the sc even. When you complete the round, sl st to join at the top of the tch.
Round 2: ch3, dc in 2nd st, dc around into every st, when you complete the round, sl st to join at the top of the tch
Round 3: ch3, *fpdc, bpdc, rep from * until end of the round, sl st to the first fpdc. Go back up to the section Kiks + Jack Crochet Crochet Stitches & Abbreviations for instructions on how to crochet Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) and Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc).
Round 4: repeat row 3
Fasten off.
Finish & Celebrate the Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Wide Shoulder Boatneck Crochet Sweater and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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