The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top is a free and easy crochet pattern that is made to measure, size inclusive and beginner friendly.
The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top will quickly become your new favourite crocheted piece of clothing. It’s long sleeved – warm enough to wear on its own in the fall and light enough to layer under a heavy cardigan or jacket in the winter.
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Sometimes during the design process, it’s fun to incorporate complex and challenging stitches. On the other hand, it’s often the pieces with a simple design and simple crochet stitching that look the most modern and the ones that you typically wear out the most. The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top is a piece that you will reach for when you need to throw a casual outfit together quickly. I’m not sure if this is a good or bad thing :), but I find it’s also the piece that people assume is store bought.
Try to choose a yarn that is soft and drapes. This version uses Coboo from Lionbrand and its a blend of cotton and rayon from bamboo. We have used it before in other patterns and we love how it sits and flows over the body. Check out the Lavender Bamboo Crochet Summer Top and the Panamer Drape Summer Crochet Tank for patterns that use the same yarn. We really wanted to design something for fall and winter, so we selected this beautiful dark forest green colour making it super cozy for the winter months too.
Let’s get started on The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top. All Kiks + Jack crochet patterns are written and designed for beginners so you will find detailed tips and explanations. Tag us on Instagram your work in progress and we promise to cheer you on. Click on the icon below:
DESCRIPTION of The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top
The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top is a mesh top and light sweater that can be worn all season. It features a slightly oversized design and long sleeves with ribbing on the sleeve cuffs. The neckline is wide and flattering and can be customized to be tighter or customized to be off the shoulder. The stitches used to create the mesh are simple and beginner friendly.
The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is a beginner pattern and involves a stitch pattern that uses primarily half double crochets and double crochets.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS for The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top
The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” and size inclusive (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.
To use this pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from your waistline (or where you would like the top to end) up to the top of your shoulder. We wanted our top to hit a little lower than the waistline so we could tuck it in.
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end)
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist loosely
Standard Sizing (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
Note: Designed as a classic fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE
Using a 4 mm crochet hook (US size 6), approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows of double crochet in 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm).
Note this pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges. However you should try to select a yarn and hook with a similar gauge to this version.
CROCHET MATERIALS
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Yarn brand: Coboo by Lion Brand Yarn. Weight 3/DK/ Light Worsted. 100g skein and 232 yards (or 212m).
You can also purchase Coboo here and we always check this for great deals. If you are lucky your colour may be available and delivery may be faster.
Kiks + Jack Crochet’s version is approximately XS and had a finished width of approximately 17 inches and a finished length of 18 inches and used approximately 840 yards (or 765m).
Color used is Olive
4 mm crochet hook (US size 6). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. However our absolute favourite, slightly more pricey crochet hooks are clover crochet hooks. You can buy then in a set or individually. We started our collection just purchasing the size 4 ,5 and 6.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
This pattern uses US terminology.
ch = chain
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have five loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all the loops) There are a number of ways to crochet a hdc2tog, however I find this way is great for beginners. Feel free to use another technique for hdc2tog if that works better for you.
ch-sp = chain space (You are crocheting into the space from the previous row – not the chain)
BLO = back loop only (You are crocheting into the back loop of the stitch only and not including the front stitch)
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top
The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top is made by first crocheting a back panel and then crocheting a front panel. We will crochet the panels bottom up. We will then crochet the ribbing for the sleeves and then continue to crochet the sleeves on to the ribbing. Next we will seam the front panel and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam the sides and the sleeves directly on to the panels.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT for The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may crochet items to sell using this pattern with permission ([email protected]). Please link back to this post in exchange. Please do NOT use my photos as your own photos.
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS for The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top
Crochet the Main Back Panel
Calculate the length of your foundation chain as follows:
| Halve your “Chest/Bust Measurement“ | Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around Half our chest/bust measurement = 32/2 = 16 inches |
| Add additional 1-2 inches for positive ease (it will also increase in width depending on how stretchy your yarn is after a few rows) | 16 + 1 = 17 inches |
Chain a length as calculated above counting the number of chains at the same time. Do not pull the chain too tight when you measure it.
Make sure you finish on an ODD number of chains. If you finish on an even number of chains then chain one more to make the total an odd number of chains.
Example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around and we have to chain 17 inches as per our calculation above. We reached 17 inches after chaining 74 chain (an even number) so we add one more chain so the total is 75 chains which is an odd number.
Row 1: ch2, hdc into the 3rd ch from the hook, hdc across each ch until the end. Turn
Row 2: ch4, 1dc in 3rd st, *ch1, sk 1, 1dc in next st, rep from * to end. Turn
Row 3: ch4, 1 dc into the 1st ch-sp (from the previous row), *ch1, 1 dc into next ch-sp, rep from * until you reach the last ch-sp. Sk the ch-sp and dc into top of tch. Turn
Remember you are crocheting into the chain space, not the chain itself.
Row 4: repeat row 3
It’s a great time to check if you are completely happy with the width of the sweater before you crochet any further. You may want to hold it up against you after 4 rows of crochet to see if you are happy with the width of the sweater. If it’s perfect keep going. If you would like to make changes to the width, it is best to start again increasing or decreasing the number of chains that you originally used.
Row 5: repeat row 3
Row 6: ch2, hdc into 1st st, *hdc into the ch-sp, hdc into the next st, rep from * until the end with a hdc in the top of tch. Turn
Row 7: ch2, hdc into 1st st, hdc across each st until the end. Turn
Repeat rows 2 – 7 in that order, until the back panel reaches a length equal to your “Finished length measurement” minus 1.5 inches (if you want a deeper neckline, then instead of 1.5 inches, you can increase it). Try to finish on a row 4 or 5 as the neckline will be crocheted using hdc rows.
K+J example: Our “Finished Length Measurement” is 18 inches. Therefore we crochet rows 2-7 in that order until the total back panel equals 16.5 inches (18 – 1.5 = 16.5 inches). We finish on a row 5.
Crochet the Front Panel
Repeat all the instructions under the Back Panel so that you have an identical front panel.
Measure the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel
We will now measure out the neckline for the two panels. Crocheting two panels first without the neckline allows you “try it on” (see below) and ensure you get the perfect neckline width before you crochet the neckline on to the two panels.
Measure approximately 4 inches in from the left edge of the back panel and place a stitch marker (we will be adjusting the exact inches that is right for you shortly). This will be the start of your neck opening.
Repeat the same on the right side of the back panel.
Repeat the same on the front panel on both sides.
Attach the two panels together lining up the 4 stitch markers and securing the panels together with the stitch markers. Place the panels over your head and double check you are happy with the neck opening. If you would like it tighter then move the stitch markers closer to your neck. If you would like the neck opening wider, then move the stitch markers away from your neck. Make sure it is the same distance (use a measuring tape) on either side and on the front and back panel.
For reference, Kiks + Jack crocheted a size XS and measured 4 inches from each side.
Crochet the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel
Now that we have measured the neckline, we will start to crochet it. Detach the two panels, however keep the four stitch markers on your panels. Start with the back panel and attach the yarn to the first stitch near the left shoulder.
You may want to count your stitches as you crochet across the next 4 rows creating your neckline. To summarize your next steps – you will crochet four rows and you will reduce one stitch in every row through the stitch hdc2tog. See “Crochet Stitches & Abbreviations” above for a guide on how to crochet a hdc2tog.
Crocheting your neckline with half double crochets (easiest for beginners):
Row 1: ch2, hdc in the 1st st and in each st (crocheting towards the neckline stitch marker), stopping 1 stitch before the st with the stitch marker, hdc2tog the next 2 stitches. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc2tog the first 2 stitches, hdc in the next st and across to the end (heading away from the neckline stitch marker). Turn
Row 3: ch2, hdc in the 1st st and in each st (crocheting towards the neckline), stopping 1 stitch before the end, hdc2tog the next 2 stitches. Turn
Row 4: repeat row 2
Crocheting your neckline with the mesh stitch (more difficult):
Row 1: ch4, 1 dc into the 1st ch-sp (from the previous row), *ch1, 1 dc into next ch-sp, rep from * until you reach the second last ch-sp. Crochet the next 2 ch-sp together. Turn
Row 2: ch4, 1 dc into the 1st ch-sp, *ch1, 1 dc into next ch-sp, rep from * until you reach the last ch-sp. Sk the ch-sp and dc into top of tch. Turn
Row 3: repeat row 1
Row 4: repeat row 2
You can do a quick check here to see if 4 rows of neckline works for you. Hold it up against the top of your shoulders and if you think you need to crochet an additional row do so. Remember you will need to repeat this on the other side and front panel.
Repeat Rows 1 – 4 on the right side of the back panel, the left side of the front panel and the right side of the front panel.
Fasten off.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel (Make 2)
We will now crochet the two sleeve panels starting with the cuff. Remember you will need to make two identical sleeve panels.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel Ribbed Cuff
ch 12
The height of our sleeve ribbing is approximately 2-2.5 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 12 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across. Turn.
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc in the entire st on the last st. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until the ribbed cuff is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches. Make sure it fits comfortably and is not too tight.
Count the number of rows (we crocheted 22 rows).
Do not fasten off. Turn your ribbing. You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing.
Crochet the Main Sleeve Panel
To calculate the number of stitches across the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | K+J Example |
| Count the number of rows in the sleeve cuff | We counted 22 rows in our cuff |
| Double the number | 22 x 2 = 44 |
Row 1: ch2, sc across the ribbing the total stitches calculated in the table above. Turn.
In K+J example, we would crochet 44 sc across the ribbing. It is going to be tight, however this is normal. You may need to crochet 2sc in to the same stitch to fit in all the stitches evenly.
Row 2: ch3, dc in 2nd st, dc in next st across until the end. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until the total length of your sleeve panel, including the cuff, is equal to your “Arm Length Measurement“.
You will check the sleeve length again under “Assembly” so that you can ensure you have the perfect fit.
Fasten off.
Remember you need to crochet two identical sleeve panels.
Assembling the Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a professional look.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder. Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing together. With a yarn needle, seam the two panels together across the shoulders starting from the edge and across. Fasten off.
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Customization Tip: It is a good time to check the length of your sleeve. You can “seam” it with a few stitch markers to the main panel. Try it on. If you would like the sleeve to be longer (eg. some like the cuff to be almost at the knuckles vs the wrist), you can remove the knot on your sleeve panel (where you fastened off) then add a few more rows on to your sleeve. Or you can reduce rows if you like your sleeves shorter by removing the knot first and pulling out (frogging) a few rows. Make sure you do the same on the second sleeve so they are identical.
When everything is perfect, using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your sweater is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve. See second diagram below (for illustrative purposes only)
Fasten off.
Finish & Celebrate the Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater and I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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