Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern that is made to measure, size inclusive and beginner friendly.
Kiks + Jack Crochet started this blog with the goal of creating easy crochet patterns. The type of garments that beginners would find simple and fast to finish. Despite all our patterns being beginner friendly and pretty easy, we really wanted to design a “first crochet beginner sweater” pattern.
This pattern is free when you access it online through your desktop or mobile device. We rely on ad revenue to meet the costs of running this website and coffee donations at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet. Thanks for supporting us and allowing us to keep providing free online patterns.
We have had hugely talented amigurumi artists who have produced the most beautiful, intricate and complex crocheted products contact us to say – “we want to start our first crochet sweater and which one should I start with?” (they could do them all they are so skilled!)
Crocheting a sweater may seem daunting, however it is so much easier than it looks! Once you have crocheted your first sweater you will never want to buy one from the store again, because you will know how easy, unique and cheaper it is to crochet. Let’s not forget better for the environment and support for the slow fashion movement!
So here it is! The Kiks + Jack Crochet pattern for all those amazing crocheters who want to crochet their first sweater! This is how we stripped out the “hard” stuff (actually it’s not that hard) and made your first crochet sweater super easy! We have also included a few tips:
No ribbing or cuffs on the sleeves. Crochet cuffs and ribbing can look stunning and we use it in a lot of our patterns. It’s actually very easy – however for your first crochet beginner sweater we leave it out.
One stitch sweater. You can probably tell that we love texture and alternating crochet stitches. To keep your first crochet sweater simple we stuck to a classic favourite – the half double crochet. If you can master the half double crochet, you can make this sweater! It’s also one of the fastest crochet stitches and there is nothing more rewarding than making your first crochet sweater…quickly!
Boatneck design. OK so we actually use the boatneck for a lot of our tops and sweaters. It is one of our favourite necklines! That’s because it’s flattering and very customizable. It also happens to be one of the easiest and we won’t put a ribbing or edge to it – double easy! The great thing is that when you are feeling more adventurous, the boatneck allows you to put a ribbing on it later!
Oversized. So this is a made to measure pattern and in theory you could crochet it as a tighter fit. However if this is your first crochet beginner sweater, we suggest you crochet it slightly oversized by increasing length and width so that everything is more forgiving. Besides we tend to wear oversized sweaters anyway – it looks better (and more modern)!
Measurements. Take your measurements and write them down. We list out all the measurements that you are going to need below. We write this pattern as a made to measure so you crochet something that is perfect for you (or the person who is lucky enough to receive this). Do you want this sweater longer? shorter? sleeves oversized? slightly cropped? You are in control of your garment and this pattern will step you through it….but write your measurements down so it’s easily accessible. The great thing is that once you do this, you can use it for future (slightly harder) Kiks + Jack Crochet patterns.
So here are some tips for selecting yarn for your first crochet beginner sweater!
Select a yarn weight close to 4/medium/worsted. Try to stick to a weight 4/medium/worsted (look on the yarn label). That is what is used for this pattern and although this pattern can accommodate different gauges, it helps to stay closer to a weight 4 for your first crochet sweater.
Select a yarn that feels good and is budget friendly. Pick a yarn that feels soft and one that you would love to wear against your skin. You are going to be so much more excited to finish this if you are feeling something soft and snuggly as you crochet it. There are so many budget friendly yarns out there that feel amazing. This is your first sweater and you don’t need the added stress of crocheting with super expensive yarn.
Does it frog well? Can you see what your crocheting? If this is your first crochet sweater you may need to frog (unravel) your crochet. Some yarns don’t frog well and get themselves knotted and get really stuck when you pull it out. Try to avoid these types of yarn for your first sweater in case you need to do lots of frogging (although betting you wont!). Also, don’t get something too fuzzy and furry. A little bit of fuzz can be forgiving if you make a mistake. However a lot of fuzz makes it hard to see and frog.
Find a stripe or a multi coloured yarn. OK this tip is a little personal and feel free to ignore it. If you get bored easily when you crochet large projects, you may want to find a gorgeous yarn you love that is self-striping or multi coloured. The excitement of a colour change or the development of a beautiful ombre as you crochet is going to keep you motivated and interested….and that is one of the most important things for new beginners – to get to the finish line! One note however, if you do select a self striping yarn, we suggest you go with flow ie. let the stripes develop as the skein unfolds (we do this all the time and we love the deconstructed look). However if this isn’t you (ie you like yours stripes to be even and consistent), we suggest you do not use a self striping yarn for your first crochet project and maybe stick to something multi coloured. Of course if none of this applies to you then go with a solid. It’s going to look gorgeous!
We used Caron Cloud Cakes by Yarnspirations. This yarn is 100% polyester and feels sooo soft, is self striping and frogs easily. It is a weight 4/medium/worsted and we loved the end result!
Once you have mastered this beginner crochet sweater pattern, here are a few others that are also easy. We suggest move on to ribbing and sleeve cuffs! It’s a quick win, super easy and looks amazing. Check out the Nusa Mesh Net Crochet Sweater v 2 and the Pink Mandevilla Crochet Spring Sweater.
OK lets get started on Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater!! (super exciting!)
DESCRIPTION of Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater
Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater is a long sleeved warm sweater that is made from half double crochets. It features a boatneck design that can be customized to be off the shoulder or crocheted as a tighter on the shoulder style. There is no ribbing on the base of the sweater or cuffs on the sleeves to keep the pattern simple for beginners. Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater is designed to hit slightly below the waist with an oversized look.
Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is beginner friendly and the Kiks + Jack Crochet version uses weight 4/worsted yarn. The stitch pattern is simple using primarily half double crochets.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES
The pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard sizing for those who wish to use it.
To use this pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from just below your waistline (or where you would like the top to end) up to the top of your shoulder. We wanted our top to hit a little lower than the waistline.
Armhole Depth: Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit. You may want to check that this measurement – when doubled – is as big as your upper arm circumference (around your bicep). Typically it is, however every body shape is different. If your upper arm circumference is larger, take this measurement instead.
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end)
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist.
Standard Sizing (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for armhole depth – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 6-6.5 (6.5-7, 7-7.5, 7.5-8, 8-8.5, 8.5-9, 9-9.5, 9.5-10, 10-10.5) inches or 15.5-16.5 (16.5-17.5, 17.5-19, 19-20.5, 20.5-21.5, 21.5-23, 23-24, 24-25.5, 25.5-26.5) centimetres
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
If you would like to use standard sizing for wrist circumference – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 5 (5.5, 6, 6.25, 6.75, 7, 7.25, 7.75, 8) inches or 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5) centimetres
Note: Designed as a loose fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE
Using a hook size 4.5mm (US size 7), approximately 14 half double crochets across and 12 rows of double crochet in 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm).
Note the pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges. However if you are new to crochet and this is your first sweater, you may want to select a yarn weight with a similar gauge.
CROCHET MATERIALS for Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater
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Yarn brand: Caron Cloud Cakes by Yarnspirations. Weight 4/Medium/Worsted. 240g per skein and 760 yards (or 695m) per skein.
Approximately 1.6 skeins or 1203 yards (or 1112m) used for Kiks + Jack’s version (approximately S) with a finished width of 18 inches and a finished length of 19 inches.
Color used is Shore Birds.
Substitute with any Worsted weight yarn 4 however check gauge.
Crochet hook size 4.5mm (US size 7). We use many different crochet hooks and some of them can get quite pricey – but if you are a beginner and looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. We love these and recommend them to all our beginner crochet friends.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS for Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater
Pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have five loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all the loops) There are a number of ways to crochet a hdc2tog, however I find this way is great for beginners).
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater
Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater is made by first crocheting a back panel and a front panel. We will crochet the panels bottom up. We will then crochet the sleeve panels. Finally we will seam the front panel and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam sleeves directly on to the panels.
This sweater is designed to be very simple and beginner friendly, and primarily uses half double crochets.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may crochet items to sell using this pattern with permission ([email protected]). Please link back to this post in exchange. Please do NOT use my photos as your own photos.
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS for Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater
Note that this pattern is written for beginners and complete words and sentences may be used to assist beginner crocheters. There may also be additional instructions and assistance to help new beginners.
Crochet the Back Panel
Calculate the length of your foundation chain as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks + Jack Crochet Example |
| Halve your “Chest/Bust Measurement“ | Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around Half our chest/bust measurement = 32/2 = 16 inches |
| Add additional 1-2 inches for positive ease and a slightly oversized look (it will also increase in width after a few rows) | 16 + 1.5 = 17.5 inches |
Chain a length as calculated above and count the number of chains at the same time. Do not pull the chain too tight when you measure it. Keep it loose. Write down the number of chains as you will need to crochet an identical front panel.
Here is a reminder on how to crochet a chain: With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop.
K+J example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around and we have to chain 17.5 inches as per our calculation above.
Row 1: ch2, hdc into 3rd ch from the hook (the first stitch), hdc into each stitch (st) across the row. When you get to the last st, turn.
Here is a reminder on how to do a hdc: Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops.
Row 2: ch2, hdc into 1st st in the row, hdc into each st across the row. Turn
Row 3: repeat row 2
Row 4: repeat row 2
This is a good time to check that you are happy with the width of your sweater. Sometimes the yarn stretches out more or less than you expect. Sometimes you change your mind and want it to be more or less oversized! So therefore, it’s important to double check the width again before you go any further. Place it up against you after 4 rows of crochet and see if the width is correct for you (or measure it if you are making it for someone else).
If your yarn is more stretchy than expected and/or you want to reduce the width, we suggest you frog (unravel) and start again reducing the number of chains you originally crocheted. Or if you decide you want it more oversized and you want to increase the width we suggest you frog and start again increasing the number of chains. It’s better to get this width right at the start.
Repeat row 2 until your back panel reaches a length equal to your “Finished Length Measurement“.
Once again, this is a great time to double check that you are happy with the length by placing the panel up against you. If you would like to make it longer crochet more of row 2. If you would like to make it shorter, remove a few rows. If you made changes, then make sure you update the Finished Length Measurement so that you can crochet an identical length for your front panel.
Fasten off
To fasten off, keep your crochet hook in the loop, cut the yarn and with the crochet hook pull the working yarn through the loop to make a knot.
Crochet the Front Panel
Follow the instructions from the Back Panel so that you have an identical Front Panel. Remember if you made any adjustments to your original measurements such as width and length so that your front panel is identical to your back panel.
Crochet the Sleeves (Make 2)
We will now crochet the sleeve panel. To keep this simple we will crochet the sleeve panel flat starting with the top of your arm (the widest part of the panel) and then we will do a little bit of shaping as we crochet towards the bottom of your arm.
Option: shaping is not scary but if you are totally against it or it’s too difficult then here is a great option. Do not shape at all and keep your sleeves one size for the width and therefore wide sleeved (we will show you how). For an extra modern look stop a little shorter than the wrist. It will look amazing!
Calculate the length of your foundation chain as follows:
| Take your “Armhole Depth Measurement“ and double it | Our armhole depth measurement = 6.5 inches Double it = 6.5 x 2 = 13 inches |
| Add 1 inch | 13 + 1 = 14 inches |
Chain a length as calculated above (Kiks + Jack Crochet would chain 14 inches) and count the chains at the same time. Do not pull the chain too tight when you measure it.
You can double check the width is correct for you by wrapping it around the thickest part of your arm. If you need to increase it you can add a few more chains. Write down the number of chains as you will need to make 2 identical sleeve panels.
Row 1: ch2, hdc into 3rd ch from the hook, hdc into each stitch (st) across the row. When you get to the last st, turn.
Row 2: ch2, hdc into 1st st in the row, hdc into each st across the row. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the panel covers the top part of your arm (after your bicep and before your elbow).
We will now start shaping the sleeve so that the width of the panel is slowly decreased until it is closer to the size of your wrist (plus positive ease). If you do not want to do any shaping and keep this sleeve super easy, you can keep crocheting row 2 until your sleeve length is equal to your “Sleeve Length Measurement“. This will give your sleeve a wide sleeve design.
To start shaping, you will reduce 2 stitches per row for every other row. When we reduce a stitch we use the hdc2tog which stands for “half double crochet 2 stitches together”. You do this by crocheting the following:
hdc2tog: Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have five loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all the loops
Next row (A): ch2, hdc2tog the next 2 stitches, hdc into the next st, hdc across the row into each st until you reach the last 2 stitches in the row, hdc2tog the last 2 stitches. Turn
You effectively turned the first 2 stitches in the row into 1 stitch and the last 2 stitches in the row into 1 stitch. This means you decreased your row by 2 stitches and it will start to shape narrower.
Next row (B): ch2, hdc into 1st st in the row, hdc into each st across the row. Turn
Repeat row (A) and row (B) in that order until the width of the sleeve panel reaches approximately “Wrist Circumference Measurement + 4 inches” OR the circumference that works for you when the sleeve panel is closed over your arm. By checking the sleeve panel over your arm, you can customize the sleeves to be tighter towards the wrist or more wide sleeved.
Sometimes it’s hard to remember whether you are on a decreasing row (Row A) or whether you are on a standard row (Row B). Try putting a stitch marker on one side of your panel. Set a rule such as; when you are heading towards the stitch marker you decrease the stitches on either end of the row (Row A) and when you are heading away from the stitch marker, you are crocheting a regular row (Row B).
You may find that you do not need to crochet many Row (A)s before you get to the wrist circumference that works for you. That’s OK. As this is a made to measure pattern it will depend on the the width of your upper arm, the length of your upper arm and how wide you want your sleeve opening to be at the wrist.
When the you are happy with the width of the sleeve panel and you do not want to decrease it anymore, stop crocheting Row A and crochet only Row B until you reach your desired “Sleeve Length Measurement“.
See diagram below (for illustrative purposes only – it will depend on your measurements)
Fasten off.
Remember you need to crochet two identical sleeve panels.
Assembling Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. We understand you have finished and are eager to seam this all together! However blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.
We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panel are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely bone dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder. Place a stitch marker approximately 4 inches in from the left side of the front panel. Do the same on the other side and measure 4 inches in from the right side of the front panel and place a stitch marker. Do the same for the back panel and attach the panels together at the stitch markers.
Place the two panels over your head and shift the stitch markers closer to the neck or further away depending on whether you want a wide off the shoulder look or a tighter on the shoulder look. If you would like to make the neckline tighter adjust the stitch markers closer towards your neck. If you would like to make the neckline wider and possibly off the shoulder, then adjust the stitch markers further from your neck. Make sure the stitch markers on the front panel matches the back panel.
Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing together. With a yarn needle, seam the two panels together across the shoulders starting from the edge and up to the stitch markers. Fasten off. See diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
It’s great to “try it on” at this point before we seam the sleeve to the main panel. We like to “seam the sleeve” together using stitch markers and try it on. Sometimes we change our minds and want the sleeve longer (almost to our knuckles). Sometimes we want to make it mid length. You can untie the knot at the end of your sleeve and crochet a few more rows or unravel a few rows if you would like to make further adjustments.
When you are happy with everything, use a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (for illustrative purpose only)
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your sweater is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve. See second diagram below (for illustrative purpose only)
Fasten off.
Finish & Celebrate Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater
Weave in all your ends.
If you decided to skip the step on blocking your panels, you can still block your sweater after its completed. Trust us! The wait as it dries, will be worth it!
Congratulations you have finished Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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