The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern that is made to measure, size inclusive and designed to be intuitive and beginner friendly.
This free crochet pattern is for a beautiful, fitted sweater that is simple, and easy to wear. It has ribbing at the bottom, that gives the sweater a classic polished look. There are three simple stitch changes that add texture making it look complex, but are actually very simple. Wear this to work, out to dinner, or keep it casual over jeans and a dress!
The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater pattern is free when you access it online through your desktop or mobile device. We rely on ad revenue to meet the costs of running this website and coffee donations at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet. Thanks for supporting us and allowing us to keep providing free online patterns.
To create The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater, we used three of our favourite stitches. The bead stitch, the textured single & double crochet stitch, and the double crochet back loop. Using this mix of stitches allows drape and structure. Also, it’s really fun every time you approach a stitch change! Knowing that you have one coming up in a few rows keeps you interested, entertained and motivated to crochet to completion!
We used a Heathered yarn for The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater. Its absolutely gorgeous and we purchased it at a small independent yarn store in an undercover market. It’s called Special Double Knit by Stylecraft and its a Weight 3/Light Worsted/DK. It’s 100% premium acrylic and is super soft.
If you can’t find this yarn, any soft weight 3 or weight 4 yarn will be a great substitution. As The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater pattern is made to measure, your gauge doesn’t need to match ours exactly.
What we love about this sweater is that it’s warm but not too warm. Layering on and off in the colder months, means we can wear this under warm jackets and feel comfortable when we step indoors. We also plan to wear this in the spring time on its own outside.
If you are looking for more light Kiks + Jack Crochet sweaters check out The Campbell Everyday Crochet Sweater Top and The Forest Walk Easy Crochet Sweater Top.
Let’s get started on The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater!
DESCRIPTION of The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater
The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater is a beautiful yet simple sweater that uses two gorgeous textured stitches along with basic rows of double crochet. It is a loose fitted, slightly oversized sweater design, with significant positive ease built in. This sweater features ribbing at the bottom and ribbing on the sleeves. The neckline is a wide crew shape to give a casual modern look, although it can be customized.
The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is an advanced beginner pattern and involves stitch pattern changes.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES for The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater
The pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” and size inclusive (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.
To use this pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from your hips (or where you would like the sweater to end) up to the top of your shoulder at your collarbone.
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end). We take this measurement to below our wrists as we always prefer oversized sleeves.
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Standard Measurements (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
Note: Designed as classic fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE for The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater
Using a hook size 4 (US size 6), approximately 15 double crochet across and 9 rows of double crochet in 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm).
Note The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges. However it is best to select a yarn with a similar gauge to this version.
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater
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Yarn brand: Special Double Knit by Stylecraft. Weight 3/Light Worsted/DK. 100g per skein and 322 yards (or 294 m) per skein. Colour used is Carnation.
Approximately 3.6 skeins or 360 grams and 1160 yards (or 1058 m) used for Kiks + Jacks version (approximately S) with a finished width of 18 inches and a finished length of 19 inches.
4 mm crochet hook (US size 6). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. However our absolute favourite, slightly more pricey crochet hooks are clover crochet hooks. You can buy then in a set or individually. We started our collection just purchasing the size 4 ,5 and 6.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
Bead Stitch (BS): 1dc into the required st. *Yarn over, insert hook behind the post of the dc from right to left, and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 5 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through first 6 loops. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have four loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops) There are a number of ways to crochet dc2tog, however this is one of the easiest for beginners.
sl st = slip stitch (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook)
BLO = back loop only
ch-3 sp = chain 3 space (eg. crochet into the space and not the stitch)
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater
The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater is made by first crocheting a back panel and an identical front panel. We will crochet the panels bottom up starting with a bottom ribbing and end with the neckline. After we have created the two panels, we will crochet the sleeve panels starting with the ribbing for the sleeves. We will then continue to crochet the sleeves on to the ribbing. Next we will seam the front panel and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam the sides and the sleeves directly on to the panels. We will finish by crocheting an edge around the neckline.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT
Please do not publish or share The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater pattern as your own. You may crochet items to sell using this pattern with permission ([email protected]). Please link back to this post in exchange. Please do NOT use my photos as your own photos.
Crochet Pattern Instructions for The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater
Crochet the Back Panel Ribbing
ch 15
The height of our ribbing is approximately 3 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 15 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, on the last st hdc into the entire stitch. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to HALF of your “Chest/Bust Measurement” plus 2 inches.
K+J example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around. Half of 32 inches = 16 inches. We keep repeating row 2 until the total length of the ribbing reaches 18 inches (16 + 2 = 18 inches)
Count the total number of rows.
K+J example: We counted a total of 44 rows to achieve a length of 18 inches.
It’s a good time to check if you are happy with the width of the sweater before you crochet any further. Place the ribbing up at your waist and bust to see if the width (length of ribbing) is right for you. If you would like it to be wider, crochet a few more rows. If you would like the ribbing to be tighter, then you can frog (unravel) a few rows.
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Back Panel
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing that you just crocheted.
To calculate the number of stitches that you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your ribbing | We have 44 rows in our ribbing |
| Multiply this by 1.5 (round up or down to a whole number if necessary) | 44 X 1.5 = 66 stitches |
| If this number is NOT a multiple of 3 then increase it until it is a multiple of 3 (divides into 3 evenly). If this number is already a multiple of 3, then leave it as is. | 66 is a multiple of 3 so we keep it as is. |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the ribbing t. he number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
In K+J example above we will crochet 66 single crochets across the long side ribbing.
Tip: You may want to place some stitch markers across the ribbing at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 marks. Then divide the number of stitches you need to crochet by 4 to give you an approximate of how many stitches you need to crochet in each quarter so you can ensure you are crocheting evenly.
Row 2: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc across. Turn
Row 3: ch3, dc BLO into 1st st, dc BLO into each st across the row. Turn
Row 4-6: repeat row 3
Row 7: ch3, *sk st, BS into next st, rep* until the end of row finishing with 1dc into the last st. Turn
Here are the Bead Stitch (BS) instructions again for your convenience: 1dc into the required st (don’t forget this step). *Yarn over, insert hook behind the post of the dc from right to left, and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 5 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through first 6 loops. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
Row 8: ch3, dc in the 2nd st, dc across towards the end, dc in tch. Turn
Row 9: ch3, *sk st, BS into next st, rep* until the end of row finishing with 1dc in tch. Turn
Row 10: ch3, dc in the 2nd st, dc across towards the end, dc in tch. Turn
Row 11-14: ch3, dc BLO into 1st st, dc BLO into each st across the row. Turn
Row 15: ch2, 2dc in 1st st, *sk next 2 st, [1sc, 2dc] in next st, rep from * towards the end of row with 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 16-19: ch1 (counts as a st), 2dc in 1st st, *sk 2dc [1sc, 2dc] in next st, rep from * towards the end of row with 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 20: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc across ensuring you have the same number of dc as your initial number of sc in row 1. Turn.
In our version we would ensure we crochet 66 stitches in Row 20. We achieved this by crocheting 1dc at the start and 2dc at the end, and 3dc per cluster. The important thing is to ensure you crochet the same number of stitches as Row 1.
Repeat rows 3-20 in that order until the back panel (including ribbing) is equal to your “Finished Length Measurement” – 2 inches (if you want a deeper neckline, then instead of 2 inches, you can increase it to 3 or 4 inches). The instructions for the neckline will be based on double crochet rows so it is best to finished on a beaded row or row 20.
Fasten off.
K+J example: Our “Finished Length Measurement” is 19 inches. Therefore we crochet rows 3-20 in that order until the total back panel including the ribbing equals 17 inches (19 – 2 = 17 inches). We finished on row 20.
Crochet the Front Panel
Repeat all the instructions under Back Panel Ribbing and Back Panel so that you have an identical front panel.
Crochet the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel
We will now measure out and crochet the neckline for the two panels. Crocheting two panels first without the neckline allows you “try it on” (see below) and ensure you get the perfect neckline width before you crochet the neckline on to the two panels.
Measure 4 inches in from the left edge of the back panel and place a stitch marker (we will be adjusting the exact inches that is right for you shortly). This will be the start of your neck opening. Repeat the same on the right side of the back panel.
Do the same on the front panel on both sides.
Attach the two panels together lining up the 4 stitch markers and securing the panels together with locking stitch markers. Place the panels over your head and double check you are happy with the neck opening. If you would like it tighter then move the stitch markers closer to your neck. If you would like the neck opening wider, then move the stitch markers away from your neck. Make sure it is the same distance (use a measuring tape) on either side and on the front and back panel. Keep in mind we will be adding a thin edging that will close the neckline opening by approximately another inch.
For Kiks + Jack’s version, we measured 5 inches from each side.
Now that we are happy with the neckline measurements, we will start to crochet it. Start with the back panel and attach the yarn to the first stitch near the left shoulder.
You may want to count your stitches as you crochet across the next 4 rows creating your neckline. You will crochet four rows and you will reduce one stitch in every row through the stitch dc2tog. See “Crochet Stitches & Abbreviations” above for a guide on how to crochet a dc2tog.
Row 1: ch3, dc in the 2nd st and in each st (crocheting towards the neckline stitch marker), stopping 1 st before the st with the stitch marker, dc2tog the next 2 st. Turn
Row 2: ch3, dc in the 2nd st and across to the end (heading away from the neckline stitch marker). Turn
Row 3: ch3, dc in the 2nd st and in each st (crocheting towards the centre), stopping 1 st before the last st, dc2tog the next 2 st. Turn
Row 4: repeat row 2
You can do a quick check here to see if 4 rows of neckline work for you. Hold it up against the top of your shoulders and if you think you need to crochet an additional row do so. Remember you will need to repeat this on the other side and on the front panel.
Fasten off.
Repeat Rows 1 – 4 on the right side of the back panel, the left side of the front panel and the right side of the front panel. If you crocheted more than 4 rows then do so for each of the other sides.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel (Make 2)
We will now crochet the two sleeve panels starting with the cuff. Remember you will need to make two identical sleeve panels.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel Ribbed Cuff
ch 15
The height of our ribbing is approximately 3 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 15 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, on the last st, hdc into the entire stitch. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the ribbed cuff is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches. Make sure it fits comfortably and is not too tight.
Count the number of rows (we crocheted 24 rows).
Do not fasten off. Turn your ribbing. You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing.
Crochet the Main Sleeve Panel
Note there is a change in the stitch pattern for the sleeve.
To calculate the number of stitches across the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | K+J Example |
| Count the number of rows in the sleeve cuff | We counted 24 rows in our cuff |
| Double the number | 24 x 2 = 48 |
Row 1: ch1, sc across the ribbing the total stitches calculated in the table above. Turn.
In K+J example, we would crochet 48 sc across the ribbing. It is going to be tight, however this is normal. You may need to crochet 2sc in to the same stitch to fit in all the stitches evenly.
Row 2: ch2, hdc in the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn.
Repeat row 2 and you should see that the width of the sleeve panel will start to fan out and increase. After a number of rows, this increase will slow down (it will depend on your gauge). At this point take a measurement of the width. You may need to increase this width (if necessary) so that it equals [2 x armhole depth measurement + 1 inch].
If you do not need to increase the sleeve panel width, then you should keep repeating Row 2 until your sleeve including the cuff reaches your desired “Arm Length Measurement“. This was the case for Kiks + Jack’s version.
If you do need to increase the width, then you will do this by crocheting Row A (increasing row) and then Row B (non increasing row) as outlined below:
Row A (increasing row): ch2, 2hdc in the 1st st, hdc across the row, 2hdc in the end st. Turn
Row B (non increasing row): ch2, hdc in the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn.
As you repeat Row A and Row B the width of your sleeve panel will start to increase again. Repeat Row A and Row B in that order until the width of your sleeve panel is equal to [2 x armhole depth measurement + 1 inch].
NOTE: You may not need to increase a lot ie. crochet Row As (or possibly none at all) before you reach your desired width. It really will depend on your arm measurements and wrist size.
When the width of your sleeve panel reaches [2 x armhole depth measurement + 1 inch] repeat Row B only (non increasing row) until the sleeve panel including the cuff, is equal to your “Arm Length Measurement“.
Note we like oversized sleeves and crochet long sleeves past our wrist. However we will show you how to check the sleeve length again under “Assembly” so that you can ensure you have the perfect fit.
Fasten off.
Remember you need to crochet two identical sleeve panels.
Assembling the Crochet Sweater
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.
We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panel are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely bone dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder. Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing together. With a yarn needle, seam the two panels together across the shoulders starting from the edge and across. Fasten off.
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Customization Tip: It is a good time to check the length of your sleeve. You can “seam” it with a few locking stitch markers to the main panel. Try it on. If you would like the sleeve to be longer (eg. some like the cuff to be almost at the knuckles vs the wrist), you can remove the knot on your sleeve panel (where you fastened off) then add a few more rows on to your sleeve. Or you can reduce rows if you like your sleeves shorter by removing the knot first and pulling out (frogging) a few rows. Make sure you do the same on the second sleeve so they are identical.
When everything is perfect, using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your sweater is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve. See second diagram below (for illustrative purposes only)
Fasten off.
Step 4: Add an edge to the neckline
Turn the sweater right side out. Attach a yarn to the side of the neckline.
Row 1: ch1, sc in the first st, sc evenly around the neckline into every st. The key is to keep the sc even. When you complete the round, sl st to join at the top of the tch.
Row 2: ch3, dc in 2nd st, dc around into every st, when you complete the round, sl st to join at the top of the tch
Row 3-4: repeat row 2
Customize the width of the neckline edge by crocheting the right number of row 2s to suit your preference. For Kiks + Jack’s version we crocheted 4 rounds of row 2.
Optional Neckline: We kept our neckline simple. However if you would like a more formal ribbing around the neckline you can add a row of front post double crochet and a second row of back post double crochet for rows 3 and 4 respectively.
Fasten off.
Finish & Celebrate The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Raspberry Heather Simple Textured Crochet Sweater and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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