The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern that is designed as a made to measure, size inclusive and beginner friendly crochet sweater pattern.
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The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater is designed for coziness and drape. The crochet stitch used is stunning. It has a beautiful effect that brings out the colours of a self striping or ombre skein, and would look equally gorgeous in a solid colour.
For the new beginner, the Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater may look difficult. However the stitch is a simple combination of single crochets and double crochets. It’s also incredibly fun because you are crocheting into large spaces – a lot easier and a lot faster for beginners!
The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater pattern is written as two simple panels using the T design. We crocheted something similar in the Whistler Bell Sleeve Crochet Sweater. You will crochet the main body panel then extend out into a T shape that will create the crochet sleeves. It’s an easy design for crochet beginners because you don’t need to seam any sleeves on. You will then crochet oversized cuffs on for a cute modern look. You add these on at the end so if you decide you prefer them off – you can!
As the weather gets cooler, we are crocheting our necklines a little tighter. You can customize your neckline to whether you prefer a tighter or looser fit. It is slightly raised but definitely not a turtle neck. Perfect for the fall and winter, but not so warm to be uncomfortable.
DESCRIPTION of The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater
The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater is a long sleeved warm sweater that is created primarily from two basic stitches – the single crochet and the double crochet. It features a slightly raised crew neck design that will keep you warm as the winter approaches. The sweater features oversized cuffs to give it a cute modern look. The Fall to Winter Sweater is designed to hit below the waist with an oversized look, however it can also be customized easily as a crop or a longer tunic.
The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is beginner friendly and uses weight 4/worsted yarn. The stitch pattern is simple using primarily single crochets and double crochets.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES
The pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.
To use this pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from your hips (or where you would like the top to end) up to the top of your shoulder. We wanted our sweater to fall below the hips so that you can tuck it in and still get a slouchy look. If you want your sweater to be shorter then take this measurement above your hips.
Length to armpit: Measure from your hips (or where you would like the top to end ie the finished length you identified) up to bottom of your armpit
Sleeve Length Measurement (without cuff): Measure from shoulder to below the elbow (does not include the cuff length). You will be adding a large cuff approximately 4 inches long and together it will give you your sleeve length. You can customize this measurement to your own preferences based on where you would like the sleeve to end and how short or long you would like the cuff. For our version we crocheted a large cuff (4 inches) and wanted slightly cropped sleeves. You can also leave off the cuff and you should consider how this changes the length of your sleeve.
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist.
Standard Sizing (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for wrist circumference – then use approximately 5 (5.5, 6, 6.25, 6.75, 7, 7.25, 7.75, 8) inches or 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5) centimetres
Note: Designed as a loose fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE
Using a hook size 6, approximately 12 double crochets across and 8 rows of double crochet in 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm).
Note the pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges however it is best to select a gauge that is close to ours.
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater
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Yarn brand (brown and yellow multi coloured): Facets by Loops & Thread. Weight 4/Medium/Worsted. 100g per skein and 279 yards (or 256m) per skein.
Yarn brand (cream solid): Happy Place Solid by Hobbii. Weight 3/Light/DK. 100g per skein and 273 yards (or 250m) per skein.
Approximately 3.8 skeins or 380 grams and 1060 yards (or 973m) used for Kiks + Jacks version (approximately S) with a finished width of 17 inches and a finished length of 24 inches.
Color used is Ember.
Substitute with any Worsted weight yarn 4 however check gauge.
6 mm crochet hook (US size 10)
5mm crochet hook (US size 8) – this is used for the neckline
We use many different crochet hooks and some of them can get quite pricey – but if you are a beginner and looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. We love these and recommend them to all our beginner crochet friends.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS for The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater
Pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
ch sp = chain space (You are crocheting into the space created by the chain 1 from the previous row and not the stitch)
BLO = back loop only
sl st = slip stitch (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. Pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook)
fpdc = front post double crochet (Yarn over and insert your hook from the front side to the back side of your work around the double crochet – the post – from the previous row, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You will now have have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
bpdc = back post double crochet (Yarn over and insert your hook from the back side to the front side of your work around the double crochet – the post – from the previous row, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You will now have have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater
The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater is made by first crocheting a back panel and a front panel. You will crochet the panels bottom up. You will start by crocheting the main part of the back panel. After you crochet the required length, you will crochet two chains on either side. This will be the start of the sleeves. The length of each chain will be equal to the sleeve length. You will then continue the crochet pattern across the entire width (left sleeve, panel, right sleeve).
After you crochet the top half of the panel and reached the required length you will crochet the neckline. Finally you will seam the front panel and the back panels together. You will then crochet cuffs for. the sleeves and sew these on to the sleeves. You will then crochet a ribbing around the neck.
The stitch used is beginner friendly and primarily uses double crochets and single crochets.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT for The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater
This is a free crochet pattern however do not publish or share The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater pattern as your own. You may crochet items to sell using this pattern with permission ([email protected]). Please link back to this post in exchange. Please do NOT use my photos as your own photos.
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS for The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater
Note: We have added an OPTIONAL edit to this pattern (Jan 2024). The original pattern did not have ribbing on the bottom of the sweater and a number of crocheters have asked us if we could add instructions for ribbing at the base of the sweater and we are happy to provide it. If you want to follow the original design as photographed, skip this next section (“Crochet the Back Panel Ribbing – Optional”) and move directly to the section after (“Crochet the Back Panel”).
Crochet the Back Panel Ribbing – Optional
Use the larger hook.
ch 12
The height of the ribbing based on the gauge will be approximately 2-3 inches. Based on our gauge this is 12 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across. On the last st, hdc into the entire st. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to HALF of your “Chest/Bust Measurement” + 1-2 inches.
Check if you are happy with the width of the sweater before you crochet any further. Place the ribbing up against you to see if the width (length of ribbing) is right for you. If you would like it to be wider, crochet a few more rows. If you would like the ribbing to be tighter, then you can frog (unravel) a few rows.
Do not fasten off.
Count the total number of rows.
You will now crochet single crochets down the long side of the ribbing that you just crocheted.
To calculate the number of stitches that you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows: Number of rows x 1.2, round the number up to the nearest multiple of 4 (or leave as is if it is already a multiple of 4) + 1 more stitch.
Example: if you crocheted 49 rows then you will single crochet down the long side of the ribbing 61 stitches.
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
Now move to the next section (“Crochet the Back Panel”) however skip all the initial instructions and move directly to Row 2.
Crochet the Back Panel
Use the larger hook.
Calculate the length of your foundation chain as follows:
| Your Calculation | K+J Example |
| Halve your “Chest/Bust Measurement“ | Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around Half our chest/bust measurement = 32/2 = 16 inches |
| Add an additional 1-2 inches for positive ease (it will also increase in width after a few rows). Our yarn is very stretchy so we did not add any additional inches. | 16 + 0 = 16 inches (our yarn is very stretchy) |
Chain a length as calculated above and count the stitches at the same time. Do not pull the chain too tight when you measure it. Keep it loose.
K+J Example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around and we have to chain 16 inches as per our calculation above.
Count the number of stitches.
K+J Example: After we chained 16 inches, we counted 61 stitches.
Increase the number of stitches if necessary to ensure you have a multiple of 4 stitches.
K+J Example: 61 is not a multiple of 4 (it doesn’t divide into 4 evenly) so we increase the chain by 3 stitches to achieve a total of 64 stitches, which is a multiple of 4.
Add 1 more stitch.
K+J Example: We added one more stitch, so our foundation chain is now a total of 64 + 1 = 65 stitches
Row 1: ch 1, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc across to the end of the row. Turn
Row 2: ch1, sc in 1st st, *ch3, sk3, sc next st, rep from * to end of row, ending with a sc at top of tch. Turn
Row 3: ch3, 3dc in the first ch-sp, *4dc in next ch-sp, rep from * to end of row and stop before the last ch-sp, 3dc in last ch-sp, 1dc in top of tch.
Note in Row 3, you are crocheting double crochets into the chain space (ch-sp), the space made by the chain 3s from the previous row.
Row 4: ch1, sc in 1st st, ch3, sk 2, sc next st, *ch3, sk3, sc next st, rep from * to end of row, sc in top of tch. Turn
It’s a great time to check if you are completely happy with the width of the sweater before you crochet any further. You may want to hold it up against you after 4 rows of crochet to see if you are happy with the width of the sweater. If it’s perfect keep going. If you would like to make changes to the width, it is best to start again increasing or decreasing the number of chains that you originally used.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 in that order until your panel reaches the “Length to Armpit Measurement” minus 1 inch. Finish on a row 3.
K+J Example: Our Length to Armpit Measurement equals 16 inches so we crochet rows 3 – 4 in that order until we reach a total panel length of 15 inches (16-1 = 15 inches).
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Upper Part of the Back Panel (the sleeves)
Using the same working yarn, chain a length equal to your “Sleeve Length Measurement (without cuff)” on one side of the lower back panel. Count the number of chains at the same time and don’t pull the chain too tight when you measure it (see diagram below).
K+J Example: Our Sleeve Length Measurement is 12 inches and we had to chain 41 to achieve a length of approximately 12 inches.
If the number of chains is NOT a multiple of 4, increase the number of chains so that the total is a multiple of 4. If it is already a multiple of 4 then thats perfect and you can leave it as is.
K+J Example: We chained 41 on the left side of the panel to achieve our Sleeve Length Measurement of 12 inches. However the number 41 is not a multiple of 4. We increased by 3 chains to make it 44, which is a multiple of 4.
Add 1 more stitch.
K+J Example: We added one more stitch, so our foundation chain is now a total of 44 + 1 = 45 stitches
Take out your hook and place a stitch marker in the same stitch your hook was in. Cut the yarn. Attach a new yarn to the first stitch on the right side and chain an equal length to the left side. You should now have the start of a “T shape” and this will be the start of your sleeves.
Important Tip: Place the panel with the start of the “T” up against the top of your shoulders. Take a look at how far your two chains fall down your arm. Keep in mind you will be attaching an oversized cuff (our cuffs are 4 inches) unless you choose to leave this out. Double check you are happy with the length of the chains (ie. the sleeve length minus the cuff). You may want to customize your version and reduce the length of the cuff compared to our version. Do you want to lengthen or shorten the length of your T? If so you should make these adjustments now before you crochet further.
Do not fasten off. Turn
Please see diagram below to help illustrate – not to scale.
We are now going to crochet across the ENTIRE row. This includes the two chains on either side and the entire back panel. Go slow in Row 1 and try to keep your chains untwisted. It will get easier after a few rows.
Row 1: ch1, sc in 1st st, *ch3, sk3, sc next st, rep from * to end of row, sc into stitch with SM. Tie two strings to secure, remove SM. Turn
Row 2: ch3, 3dc in the first ch-sp, *4dc in next ch-sp, rep from * to end of row and stop before the last ch-sp, 3dc in last ch-sp, 1dc in top of tch.
Row 3: ch1, sc in 1st st, ch3, sk 2, sc next st, *ch3, sk3, sc next st, rep from * to end of row, sc in top of tch. Turn
Repeat row 2 and row 3 in that order until the length of the upper part of the back panel (the sleeves) is equal to your [“Finished Length Measurement” – your “Length to Armpit Measurement“]+ 1 inch.
K+J Example: Our Finished Length Measurement is 24 inches. Our Length to Armpit Measurement is 16 inches. We repeat rows 2-3 until the entire length of the upper part of the back panel equals 9 inches (24 – 16 + 1 = 9 inches).
You can also double check this length by holding it up against you starting at the tops of your shoulders and making sure you have crocheted enough upper panel to cover your chest area. If you would like it more oversized you may want to crochet a few more rows.
Please see diagram below to help illustrate – not to scale.
Fasten off.
Front Panel
Repeat all the instructions in the Lower Back Panel and Upper Back Panel. Repeat the ribbing if you crocheted it.
You should now have two T-shaped panels that are identical.
Crochet ribbed cuffs (Make 2 cuffs)
Use the larger hook.
The height of our ribbed cuff is approximately 4 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 17 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
ch 17
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across. Turn.
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until the sleeve ribbing cuff is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches and fits comfortably around your wrist. If you would like it looser you can crochet a few more rows and if you would like it tighter you can remove a few rows.
Fasten off.
Remember to make two identical sleeve ribbed cuffs.
Assemble Front and Back Panel
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.
We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panel are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely bone dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder. Place 2 stitch markers to mark the left and right side of the neckline. We measured approximately 15 inches from each side (from the end of the sleeve). Do the same for the back panel.
Check the Neckline: Place the two panels over your head (you can connect the two panels together using the stitch markers) and shift the stitch markers that mark your neckline closer to the neck or further away depending on whether you want a wider or a tighter neck opening. If you would like to make the neckline tighter add another inch or so on both sides and adjust the stitch markers. If you would like to make the neckline wider, then reduce an inch or so on all sides and adjust the stitch markers.
Keep in mind that we will be adding a ribbing to the neckline, so it will be a little bit tighter as well.
When you are happy with the neckline, seam the two panels together at the shoulders by using a yarn needle and matching yarn. Make sure the right sides are facing together. Start at one end at the bottom of the sleeve and seam all the way up the top of the sleeve across the shoulders up to the neck line stitch markers. Do the same on the other side.
Please see diagram below to help illustrate – not to scale.
Step 2: Seam the sides together. With the right sides still facing together, seam from the bottom all the way up the side towards the armpit and across the bottom of the sleeve. Fasten off. Do the same on the other side.
Please see diagram below to help illustrate – not to scale.
Step 3: Add the ribbing to the neckline
Use the smaller hook. Attach a yarn to the side of the neckline.
Row 1: ch1, sc in the first st, sc evenly around the neckline into every st, when you complete the round sl st to join at the top of the tch
Row 2: ch3, dc in 2nd st, dc around into every st, when you complete the round, sl st to join at the top of the tch
Row 3: ch3, *fpdc, bpdc, rep from * until end of the round, sl st to the first fpdc. Go back up to the section Crochet Stitches & Abbreviations for instructions on how to crochet Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) and Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc).
Fasten off.
Step 4: Seam the ribbed cuffs to the sleeve. The circumference of the sleeve panel is going to be much wider than the length of the cuff. This is correct and you will need to make sure the cuff is evenly seamed to the sleeve circumference.
To do this evenly, place 4 stitch markers at the 1/4 way mark of the length of the cuff, 1/2 mark, 3/4 mark and at the end of the cuff. Do the same with another 4 stitch markers on the bottom of your sleeve panel placing them around the sleeve at the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and end. Connect the cuff to the sleeve (wrong side facing out) making sure that the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and ending stitch markers line up. You should connect the cuff and the sleeve together with the corresponding stitch markers.
Using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the cuff to the sleeve, bunching the sleeve slightly to make sure it fits to the cuff and using the stitch markers to make sure its seamed evenly.
Do the same on the other cuff and sleeve.
Finish & Celebrate the Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater and I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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