The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan is a crochet pattern for you to view for free below. It is made to measure, size inclusive and designed and written specifically for beginners.
When early November comes around we start planning and crocheting our holiday wearables. We love combinations of red, white and green and typically wear them as separates. Although we do have a soft spot for holiday sweaters (especially the cute ugly ones) we love to crochet clothing that we can wear more than once. And by crocheting them all as individual pieces it allows us to wear them separately throughout the year! So here is some of our holiday outfit. A simple white crochet first layer and a warm textured red crochet cardigan … soon to be followed by a deep green crochet scarf.
We wanted to get the Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan up on our blog quickly so crocheters who like it, can get started straight away. Hopefully we finish the WIP green scarf so we can get it on our blog early enough for you to crochet it!
For those who are looking for something festive that is a little faster and short sleeved, take a look at our Holiday Lace & Mesh Crochet Top that we crocheted and wore last year.
We are trying to keep all our crochet patterns free for everyone, when you access them online. We meet the costs of running this website through coffee donations at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet and ad revenue. When you buy us a cup of coffee, you buy us a cup of motivation. Thank you for keeping us motivated and inspired every day to keep designing free crochet patterns for you.
Do you love all that texture … yet it’s still super simple and classic? So let’s get started on The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan!
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DESCRIPTION of The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan
The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan is a casual cardigan with long sleeves and ribbing on the bottom and at the cuffs. It features a simple neckline and opening and is designed to be oversized and the length is customizable. The cardigan is suitable for beginners, however there are a few stitch patterns involved including the bead and puff stitch. There are no button holes or buttons used for this pattern.
The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is beginner friendly and uses weight 4/medium/ worsted yarn. This pattern accommodates for different gauges.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES
The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements. Made to measure patterns are written differently to commercially sized patterns (eg S, M, L etc).
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” (versus commercially sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard sizing for those who wish to use it.
To use the Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from where you would like the cardigan to end up to the top of your shoulder. We wanted our cardigan to hit just above our hips.
Arm Length to Underarm: With arm slightly bent, measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end)
Upper Arm Measurement: Measure around the widest section of the upper arm located above the elbow eg bicep
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist.
Standard Sizing (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust โ then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length to underarm – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
If you would like to use standard sizing for upper arm – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 9.75 (10.25, 11, 12, 13.5, 15.5, 17, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 25 (26, 28, 30.5, 34.5, 39.5, 43, 47, 49.5) centimetres
The Happy Holidays Red Crochet Cardigan is designed as an oversized fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE
This Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan pattern is made to measure and can therefore accommodate different gauges. However we suggest you try to select a hook and yarn weight that is similar to ours.
For our version of The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan we used a weight 4/worsted/medium weight yarn and a 5mm crochet hook. It produces a gauge of approximately 12 half double crochets across and approximately 10 rows of half double crochet in 4โณ x 4โณ (10 cm x 10 cm).
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan
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Yarn brand: Heartland by Lion brand yarn. Weight 4/Medium/Worsted. 142g per skein and 251 yards (or 230m) per skein.
You can also purchase Heartland by Lion brand yarn here on Amazon.
Approximately 4.6 skeins or 653 grams and 1155 yards (or 1058 m) used for Kiks + Jacks version of The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan (approximately S) with a finished width of 19 inches and a finished length of 22 inches.
Color used is Redwood.
5mm crochet hook (US size 8). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. We also love the slightly more pricey crochet hooks from Clover Crochet Hooks and the beautiful Furls Crochet Hooks (these are so stunning, we just love looking at them!)
Yarn Winder!!! (Our new LOVE). We have held off on a yarn winder for a long time. We love the idea of crochet being simple with just a hook and some yarn. However we decided to get this yarn winder, because it was affordable and we weren’t sure about investing in a super fancy one yet. We love it because it breathes life back into scrappy yarn lying around that looks messy. It’s simple to use and is holding up really well for us.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan pattern uses US terminology.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
BLO = back loop only
tch = turning chain
Bead Stitch (BS): 1dc into the required st. *Yarn over, insert hook behind the post of the dc from right to left, and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 5 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through first 6 loops. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
POP = popcorn stitch (4dc in desired st, drop the loop from the hook, insert hook into 1st dc (1st dc in the 4dc cluster), pull through the dropped loop through the st)
fpdc = front post double crochet (Yarn over and insert your hook from the front side to the back side of your work around the double crochet – the post – from the previous row, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You will now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
bpdc = back post double crochet (Yarn over and insert your hook from the back side to the front side of your work around the double crochet – the post – from the previous row, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You will now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
sl st = slip stitch (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook)
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan
The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan is made by first crocheting a back panel ribbing and then crocheting the main back panel. We will incorporate three stitch patterns. We will then crochet two front panels, starting with the ribbing and this will make up the front of the cardigan. The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan is an open cardigan so we will not be crocheting button holes or attaching buttons.
We will then crochet the sleeve panels starting with the cuff and then crochet the sleeve panel until it reaches the required length. The sleeves on The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan will use a different stitch pattern to the main panels. Finally will seam the two front panels and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam sleeves directly on to the panels.
The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan will have a thicker ribbing around the centre opening and optional pockets.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT for The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan
You may not publish or share any pattern on this website www.kiksandjackcrochet as your own including this pattern The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan. Except as permitted by the copyright law applicable to you, you may not reproduce or communicate any of the content on this website, including files downloadable from this website, without the permission of the copyright owner, Kiks + Jack Crochet.
You may not use any Kiks and Jack Crochet photo as your own photo.
You may crochet items to sell using The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan pattern upon permission by email at [email protected]. Please link back to this post in exchange.
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS for The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan
Crochet the Main Back Panel Ribbing
The height of our ribbing is approximately 3 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 12 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
ch 12
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc into the entire st on the last st. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to HALF of your “Chest/Bust Measurement” + 3 inches.
Example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around. Half of 32 inches = 16 inches. We keep repeating row 2 until the total length of the ribbing reaches 19 inches (16 + 3 = 19 inches)
Count the total number of rows.
Example: We counted a total of 40 rows to achieve a length of 19 inches.
It’s a great time to do an intuitive check if you are completely happy with the width of the cardigan before you crochet any further. Place the ribbing up against you to see if the width (length of ribbing) is right for you. This pattern is designed to be oversized, however if you would like it to be wider and more oversized, crochet a few more rows. If you would like the ribbing to be tighter and less oversized, then you can frog (unravel) a few rows.
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Main Back Panel
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing that you just crocheted.
To calculate the number of stitches that you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks + Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your ribbing | We crocheted 40 rows in our ribbing (to achieve 19 inches) |
| Multiply this by 1.2 (round up if necessary) | 40 X 1.2 = 48 stitches |
| Adjust this number upwards to ensure it is a multiple of 4. If the number is already a multiple of 4 then keep it as is. | 48 is a multiple of 4 so we keep this number as is |
| Add one more stitch. | 48 + 1 = 49 stitches |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the ribbing the total number of stitches you calculated above. Turn
In K+J example above we will crochet 49 single crochets across the long side ribbing. You may want to divide your ribbing into 4 quarters using stitch markers and ensure you are crocheting approximately 25% of your total stitches in each quarter. This will help you ensure you are crocheting evenly across your ribbing.
Row 2: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc across to end. Turn
Row 3: repeat row 2
Row 4: ch3, 2dc in 2nd st, 2dc in next st, *sk2, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, rep from * across to end and end with 1dc in last st. Turn
Row 5: ch3, 2dc in 3rd st, 2dc in next st, *sk 2st, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, rep from * across to end and end with 1dc at top of tch. Turn
Row 6: repeat row 5
Row 7: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc across the to end to the last st (not tch). Turn
Row 8: repeat row 7
Row 9: ch3, BS in 2nd st, *sk st, BS in next st, rep from * across to end and end with 1dc in last st
Here is the Bead Stitch (BS) copied from above: 1dc into the required st. *Yarn over, insert hook behind the post of the dc from right to left, and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 5 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through first 6 loops. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
Row 10: ch2, hdc in 1st st, *hdc in top of bead, hdc between bead, rep from * to end until you reach final bead, hdc in top of tch. Turn
Tip: It is important the number of hdcs in Row 10 are equal to the number of stitches in Row 1. For example we initially crocheted 49 single crochets and we should still be crocheting 49 hdcs in Row 10. You may want to count the number of hdcs in Row 10 to ensure you end up with the same number of stitches.
Row 11: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc across the to end to the last st (not tch). Turn
Repeat rows 4-11 until your back panel (including ribbing) is equal to your “Finished Length Measurement“.
Fasten off.
Crochet the Main Front Panel Ribbing
You will now crochet 2 panels that will make up the front of your cardigan. The length of each front panel ribbing is calculated as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows you crocheted in your back panel ribbing | We crocheted a total of 40 rows in our back panel ribbing |
| Multiply by 0.9 | 40 rows x 0.9 = 36 rows |
| Divide by 2 and round up to a whole number | 36 rows divided by 2 = 18 rows |
ch 12
Note: If you adjusted the number of chains in your back ribbing, then chain this amount instead
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc into the entire st on the last st. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total number of rows in your ribbing is equal to the number of rows you calculated above.
K+J example: Based on our measurement, we keep repeating row 2 until the total number of rows in the ribbing is 18 rows
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Main Front Panel
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing.
To calculate the number of stitches you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your front panel ribbing | We have 18 rows in our ribbing |
| Multiply this by 1.2 | 18 X 1.2 = 21.6 |
| Adjust this number upwards to ensure it is a multiple of 4. If the number is already a multiple of 4 then keep it as is. | We round up to 24 (multiple of 4) |
| Add one more stitch. | 24 + 1 = 25 |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the ribbing the total number of stitches you calculated above. Turn
In K+J example above we will crochet 25 single crochets across the long side ribbing.
Row 2: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc across to end. Turn
Row 3: repeat row 2
Row 4: ch3, 2dc in 2nd st, 2dc in 3rd st, *sk2, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, rep from * across to end and end with 1dc in last st. Turn
Row 5: ch3, 2dc in 3rd st, 2dc in next st, *sk 2st, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, rep from * across to end and end with 1dc at top of tch. Turn
Row 6: repeat row 5
Row 7: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc across the to end to the last st (not tch). Turn
Row 8: repeat row 7
Row 9: ch3, BS in 2nd st, *sk st, BS in next st, rep from * across to end and end with 1dc in last st
Here is the Bead Stitch (BS) copied from above: 1dc into the required st. *Yarn over, insert hook behind the post of the dc from right to left, and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 5 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through first 6 loops. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
Row 10: ch2, hdc in 1st st, *hdc in top of bead, hdc between bead, rep from * to end until you reach final bead, hdc in top of tch. Turn
Tip: It is important the number of hdcs in Row 10 are equal to the number of stitches in Row 1. For example we initially crocheted 25 single crochets and we should still be crocheting 25 hdcs in Row 10.
Row 11: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc across the to end to the last st (not tch). Turn
Repeat rows 4-11 until your front panel (including ribbing) is equal to your “Finished Length Measurement” and is the same length as your back panel.
Fasten off.
Make sure you crochet TWO identical front panels with ribbing.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel Ribbing
ch 12
Note: If you adjusted the number of chains in your back ribbing, then chain this amount instead
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc into the entire st on the last st. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches. This is just a guide and it is more important that it fits comfortably and is not too tight. The sleeves are designed to be oversized.
Count the number of rows (Kiks + Jack crocheted 22 rows).
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Main Sleeve Panel
Note: there is a stitch pattern change for the sleeves.
We will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing. To determine the number of stitches you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your sleeve panel ribbing | We have 22 rows in our ribbing |
| Multiply this by 2 | 22 x 2 = 44 stitches |
| Adjust this number upwards to ensure it is a multiple of 8. If the number is already a multiple of 8 then keep it as is. | We adjust this number to 48 stitches to ensure it is a multiple of 8 |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
Tip: You may need to crochet 2sc into a stitch to fit the stitches in. It will be tight. If your choice of yarn cannot fit in all the stitches, you can reduce it as long as you maintain a multiple of 8. Once again, you may want to divide your ribbing into 4 quarters using stitch markers and ensure you are crocheting approximately 25% of your total stitches in each quarter. This will help you ensure you are crocheting evenly across your ribbing.
In K+J example above we will crochet 48 single crochets across the long side of the ribbing.
Row 2: ch3, dc into the 2nd st, dc into the next 5 st, *ch1, sk1, dc for next 7 st, repeat from * to the end of the row, with another dc in the last st. Turn
Row 3: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc into next st, POP into next st, dc across until you reach ch-1 sp below, *ch1, sk1, dc for next 3 st, POP into next st, dc across until you reach ch-1 sp below, repeat from * to end of row, dc in top of tch. Turn
Here is a reminder of the popcorn (POP) stitch: 4dc in desired st, drop the loop from the hook, insert hook into 1st dc, pull through the dropped loop through the st
Row 4-6: ch3, dc in 2nd st, *dc across until you reach ch-1 sp below, ch1, sk1, repeat from * to end of row, dc in top of tch. Turn
Tip: You want to make sure your [ch1, sk1] are all lined up in each row.
Repeat Rows 3-6 in that order until your sleeve panel reaches the “Arm Length Measurement” (read the “Note on Expanding the Width” below first). We will check the length again later and make adjustments if necessary (if you crocheted your front and back panels very oversized you can probably reduce the sleeve length depending on how oversized you like your sleeves).
Note on Expanding the Width of your Sleeve Panel (optional): You may need to increase the width of your sleeve panel to ensure it fits over the widest part of your arm. This is optional and depends on different body types. Initially, your sleeve panel will start to widen out and then eventually stop widening out. At this point, measure the width of the sleeve panel. If this is less than the widest part of your arm, usually your “Upper Arm Measurement” + 1 inch, you will need to increase the width of the panel. To do this you should crochet 1dc in the first stitch (ie. ch3 and 1dc in 1st st) and 2dc in the last stitch of every other row. Do not adjust the placement of the POP stitch or the [ch1, sk1] stitch. When the width of your sleeve panel expands to equal your “Upper Arm Measurement” + 1 inch, you can stop adding these 2 extra double crochets and go back to the normal rows. This is optional and Kiks + Jack did not need to do this for our version – it depends on your gauge and individual measurements.
Fasten off.
Make sure you crochet TWO identical sleeve panels with ribbing.
Assembling The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.
We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panels are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panels at the shoulder.
Place one front panel on top of the back panel lined up at the side and shoulder with the right sides facing together. With a yarn needle, seam the panel together across the shoulders starting from the edge and up to the end of the front panel. Fasten off. Do the same with the second front panel on the other side of the back panel. See the diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Customization Tip: It is a good time to check the length of your sleeve. You can “seam” the sleeve panel with a few stitch markers to the main panel. Try it on.
If you would like the sleeve to be longer (eg. some like the length to be almost at the knuckles vs the wrist), you can add a few more rows on to your sleeve. You do this by unknotting your final knot where you fastened off at the end of the sleeve panel, attach matching yarn and crochet a few more rows. Or you can reduce rows if you like your sleeves shorter. You do this by unknotting your final knot where you fastened off and pulling out (frogging) the rows. Make sure you do the exact same on the second sleeve.
When everything is perfect, using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up). See the diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your cardigan is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve.
Fasten off.
Crochet around the Neckline
Note we used the same hook size for our version of The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan. However if you want a slightly finer ribbing around the neckline you could switch to a smaller hook size.
Turn your cardigan right side out.
Attach a matching yarn at the bottom of your front panel. Start with the side that works best for you.
Row 1: ch1, sc around the entire front opening from one end at the bottom all around the neckline to the other end. Try to crochet evenly around the neckline. This is more important than the exact number of stitches around. Turn
Row 2: ch3, dc back around – all the way until you reach the end where you started.
Row 3: ch3, *fpdc, bpdc, rep from * until all the way around. You may need to go up to the section Crochet Stitches & Abbreviations for instructions on how to crochet Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) and Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc).
Row 4: repeat row 3. Make sure your fpdc line up with the fpdc from the previous row and your bpdc line up with the bpdc from the previous row.
We stopped after two rows of fpdc, bpdc however feel free to customize the width to suit your preference. Try it on for an intuitive check.
Fasten off.
Crochet the Pockets for The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan
Plan out the size of your pockets for The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan. How wide and long do you want the pockets? We wanted small pockets, approximately 4.5 inches wide and 4.5 inches long.
Chain and count until you reach the desired width of the pocket. Make sure the chain is a multiple of 8.
Kiks + Jack crocheted 16 chains to give us a width of approximately 4.5 inches.
Row 1: ch1, sc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 2: ch3, dc into the 2nd st, dc into the next 5 st, *ch1, sk1, dc for next 7 st, repeat from * to the end of the row, with another dc in the last st. Turn
Row 3: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc into next st, POP into next st, dc across until you reach ch-1 sp below, *ch1, sk1, dc for next 3 st, POP into next st, dc across until you reach ch-1 sp below, repeat from * to end of row. Turn
Row 4-6: ch3, dc in 2nd st, *dc across until you reach ch-1 sp below, ch1, sk1, repeat from * to end of row. Turn
Repeat Rows 3-6 in that order until you have reached the desired length of your pocket. Its best to end on a row 4-6 and not a row 3.
Kiks and Jack crocheted the pocket until it was an approximate length of 4.5 inches.
Fasten off.
Crochet two identical pockets.
Using a yarn needle and matching yarn, sew the pockets on to the cardigan making sure the pocket is straight and leaving the top open.
Fasten off.
Finish & Celebrate The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Happy Holidays Easy Red Crochet Cardigan and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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