Lace and Mesh Crochet Top Free Pattern

Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top Free Pattern



Lace and Mesh Crochet Top Free Pattern

The Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top is a free and easy crochet pattern that is made to measure, size inclusive and beginner friendly.

We have been designing up a storm of sweaters as the weather has got colder. The rain has been coming down hard, the temperature drops and you feel the need to crochet warm, snuggly sweaters with beautiful cozy yarn. However the holiday month is coming up quickly and it gets you thinking of what to crochet and what to wear.

Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

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So this year the thoughts around design were….red, short sleeved, breathable and lace stitch.

You may be surprised that we went for a short sleeve during winter. If you hate being too hot in a crowded, heated room (love those open fires however) or a crowded mall (where you tend to find yourself during the holiday season) – then consider crocheting a short sleeve that can then be layered under a cardigan (crocheted of course). You can show off all your beautiful crochet in one outfit and can easily layer it on and off. Of course – we also can’t forget about our Aussie family and friends experiencing Christmas in the summer!

The other trick to crocheting holiday outfits is to keep all your pieces in beautiful shades of solid holiday themed colours! Reds, whites, greens, silvers etc. By doing that you can wear each piece out separately during other times of the year….and who doesn’t love getting maximum use out of your crocheted pieces.

Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

On holiday mode, consider crocheting the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top in solid reds or greens and layer it under a beautiful white fluffy crocheted cardigan like The Banbury Oversized Drape Crochet Cardigan or The Victoria Easy Chunky Crochet Cardigan. Off holiday mode wear them separately so you can get extended use out of your hard work! We crocheted a beautiful oversized Sage green blanket cardigan a few years ago, and this Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top will probably be worn under it this season.

For this version, we used a beautiful mercerized cotton. It’s breathable with a little structure. Mercerized cotton has a beautiful sheen over it compared to regular cotton. The end result is a gorgeous top, perfect for layering in toasty rooms that can be worn on its own after the holiday season! You can find all the details in the section Crochet Materials below.

Let’s get started on the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top.

DESCRIPTION of the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

The Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top is a short sleeved top using mainly three types of stitches. It is designed to be slightly oversized and finish below the waist. This is a made to measure pattern and is fully customizable. It features a square neck design and rows of alternative stitch patterns. The sleeves are short with a lacy finish.

The Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top is a made to measure, size inclusive, and beginner friendly pattern. It can accommodate for different yarn gauges.

CROCHET MEASUREMENT & SIZES

The pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.

Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.

To use this pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:

Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.

Finished length: Measure from below your waistline (or where you would like the top to end) up to the top of your shoulder. We wanted our top to hit a little lower than the waistline.

Armhole Depth: Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit

If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.

If you would like to use standard sizing for armhole depth – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 6-6.5 (6.5-7, 7-7.5, 7.5-8, 8-8.5, 8.5-9, 9-9.5, 9.5-10, 10-10.5) inches or 15.5-16.5 (16.5-17.5, 17.5-19, 19-20.5, 20.5-21.5, 21.5-23, 23-24, 24-25.5, 25.5-26.5) centimetres

Note: The Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top is designed as a classic fit with some positive ease. 

CROCHET GAUGE

Using a crochet hook size 4mm (US size 6) approximately 14 stitches and 12 rows of half double crochet in 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm).

This pattern can accommodate for yarns with different gauges, however try to select a yarn and hook with a gauge similar to this version.

CROCHET MATERIALS for the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

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Yarn brand: 24/7 Cotton by Lion Brand Yarn. Weight 4/Worsted/Medium. 100g per skein and 186 yards (or 170 metres). We used the colour Terracotta (note the colour displayed online looks closer to Red).

You can also purchase 24/7 Cotton here on Amazon and we always check this for great deals. If you are lucky your colour may be available and delivery may be faster.

Approximately 4 skeins or 744 yards (or 680 m) used for our garment (approximately S) with a finished width of 18 inches and a finished length of 18 inches. 

4 mm crochet hook (US size 6). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. However our absolute favourite, slightly more pricey crochet hooks are clover crochet hooks. You can buy then in a set or individually.

Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.

Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.

Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.

Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!

Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS

This pattern uses US terminology.

ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop​​)

sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)

hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)

dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)

tch = turning chain

sl st = slip stitch

st = stitch

sk = skip stitch

* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed

Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.

SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

The Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top is made by first crocheting a front panel and an identical back panel. We will start by crocheting the panels bottom up. We will then crochet the square neckline on both panels after customizing the neckline opening. Small lacy sleeves will be crocheted directly on to the panels. This pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different gauges.

PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT for the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may crochet items to sell using this pattern upon permission by email at [email protected]. Please link back to this post in exchange. Please do NOT use my photos as your own photos.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS for the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

Crochet the Main Back Panel

Calculate the length of your foundation chain as follows:

Halve your “Chest/Bust MeasurementOur chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around
Half our chest/bust measurement = 32/2 = 16 inches
Add additional 1-2 inches for positive ease 16 + 2 = 18 inches

Chain a length as calculated above counting the number of chains at the same time. Do not pull the chain too tight when you measure it.

Make sure the total number of chains is a multiple of 4. If the total number of chains is not a multiple of 4, then increase the number of chains so that the total number of chains is a multiple of 4.

K+J Example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around and we have to chain 18 inches as per our calculation above. We reached 18 inches after chaining 71 chains. 71 is not a multiple of 4. So we chain 1 extra chain to make the total number of chains 72 (which is a multiple of 4).

Add one extra chain.

K+J Example: We add one more chain to give a total of 73 chains.

Row 1: ch3, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across the row. Turn

Row 2: ch3, dc into the 2nd st, dc across the row, dc in last st. Turn

Row 3: ch3, dc into the 2nd st, dc across the row, dc in top of tch. Turn

Row 4-6: repeat row 3

Small mesh rows:

Row 7: ch3, dc in to the 3rd st, *ch1, sk next st, 1dc in next st, rep from * to end. Turn

Row 8: ch 4, sk ch-1 sp, *1dc in next st (top of the dc from the previous row), ch1, sk next st, rep from * to end with dc in the top of the tch. Turn

Tip: you are crocheting a dc into the top of each dc from the previous row

Row 9: ch2, *hdc in ch-1 sp, hdc in next st (top of the dc from previous row), rep from * to end finishing with a hdc in the top of the tch. Turn

Row 10: repeat row 3.

Iris stitch rows:

Row 11: ch2, 2dc into 3rd st, ch1, 2dc into the same 3rd st, *sk 3st, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in next st, rep from * to end, 1dc in last st. Turn

Row 12: ch3, *[2dc, ch1, 2dc] in next ch-1sp, sk next 4dc, rep from * to end of row ending with 1dc in tch. Turn

Tip: You are effectively crocheting the stitch that looks like a fan [2dc, ch1, 2dc] directly on top and in the middle of the fan cluster from the previous row.

Row 13: repeat row 12

You may want to think of the next Row 14 as 4 x hdc per Iris stitch cluster. 1hdc before the ch1-sp, 1hdc in the ch-1sp, 1 hdc after the ch-1 sp and 1hdc between the cluster. In Kiks + Jack example we would crochet 73 hdc across.

Row 14: ch2, hdc across the row the same number of stitches as your initial foundation chain. Turn

Tip: You may want to count your stitches as you crochet row 14 as a good way to check that this row has the same number of stitches as your foundation chain. ie. you should have the same number of stitches as you initially chained.

Continue repeating Rows 1-14 – ie. a pattern of 6 rows of double crochets, 2 rows of small mesh stitch (with a hdc and dc row), 3 rows of iris stitch (with a hdc row) – until the total length is equal to your “Finished length measurementminus 1.5 inches (if you want a deeper neckline, then instead of 1.5 inches, you can increase it).

K+J example: Our “Finished Length Measurement” is 18 inches. Therefore we crochet rows 1-14 in that order until the total back panel equals 16.5 inches (18 – 1.5 = 16.5 inches).

Fasten off.

Crochet the Front Panel

Repeat all the instructions under the Back Panel so that you have an identical front panel.

Measure the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel

We will now measure out the neckline for the two panels. Crocheting two panels first without the neckline allows you “try it on” (see below) and ensure you get the perfect neckline width before you crochet the neckline on to the two panels.

Measure approximately 4 inches in from the left edge of the back panel and place a stitch marker (we will be adjusting the exact inches that is right for you shortly). This will be the start of your neck opening.

Repeat the same on the right side of the back panel.

Repeat the same on the front panel on both sides.

Attach the two panels together lining up the 4 stitch markers and securing the panels together with the stitch markers. Place the panels over your head and double check you are happy with the neck opening. If you would like it tighter then move the stitch markers closer to your neck. If you would like the neck opening wider, then move the stitch markers away from your neck. Make sure it is the same distance (use a measuring tape) on either side and on the front and back panel.

For reference, Kiks + Jack crocheted a size S and measured 4 inches from each side for a slightly wider neckline.

Crochet the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel

Now that we are happy with the neckline measurements, we will start to crochet it. Detach the two panels, however keep the four stitch markers on your panels. Start with the back panel and attach the yarn to the first stitch near the left shoulder.

Row 1: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc in next st, hdc across the row towards the stitch marker, until the st with the stitch marker. Turn

Row 2: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc in each st away from the stitch marker and across to end of row. Turn

Row 3: repeat row 1

Row 4: repeat row 2

Note if you wanted a deeper neckline, you may need to crochet additional rows. Repeat row 1 and 2 in that order until you reach your desired depth.

Fasten off.

Repeat Rows 1 – 4 on the right side of the back panel, the left side of the front panel and the right side of the front panel.

Assembling the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.

We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panel are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely bone dry.

Place the two panels together with the right side facing together and the wrong side facing outwards.

Using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the two shoulders together.

Measure the “Armhole Depth Measurement+ 1 inch from the top edge towards the bottom edge and place a stitch marker clipping both panels. This will mark the bottom of your sleeve opening under the armpit.

Do the same on the other side of the top.

You may want to try the top on again and see if you are comfortable with the armhole depth. If you would like more space you can move the stitch markers further away from your armpit. For example you may want to use the “Armhole Depth Measurement + 1.5 inches”. The opposite applies if you would like a tighter armhole opening. Make sure you use the same measurement on both sides.

Using a yarn needle and matching yarn seam the sides of your top together (make sure you are seaming on the wrong side and right sides are facing together). Start from the bottom edge and seam all the way up to the stitch markers.

Do the same on the other side.

You should now have two panels seamed together at the shoulders and the sides, with arm openings. We will now crochet the cap sleeves directly on.

Crochet the Sleeves

You will now be crocheting directly around the sleeve opening.

Attach yarn near the stitch marker (at the bottom near the armpit).

Round 1: ch3, dc into each space and into each row of stitches. End the row on a multiple of 4 stitches. It is more important to crochet evenly rather than the actual number of double crochet stitches. At the end of the row sl st into the top of the tch (sl st counts as a stitch in the round)

Round 2: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc around until the last st, sl st into top of the tch.

Row 3: ch2, 2dc into 3rd st, ch1, 2dc into the same st, *sk 3st, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in next st, rep from * to the other end, sl st into top of tch to end. Turn

Row 4: ch3, *[2dc, ch1, 2dc] in next ch-1sp, sk next 4dc (ie. the fan cluster), rep from * to the other end, sl st into top of tch to end.

Row 5-7: repeat row 4

Fasten off.

Repeat the sleeve on the other side of the top.

Crochet around the neckline

We did not crochet around the neckline for the Kiks + Jack version. However if you feel your neckline needs neatening, you can attach yarn to the neckline and do single crochets around the neckline .

ch1, sc around the neckline, sl st to join

Fasten off.

Finish & Celebrate the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top

Weave in all your ends.

If you decided to skip the step on blocking your panels, you can still block your top after its completed. Trust us! The wait as it dries, will be worth it!

Congratulations you have finished the Holiday Lace and Mesh Crochet Top and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.

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