The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern that is made to measure, size inclusive and designed to be intuitive and beginner friendly.
The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater is a beautiful, fitted sweater that is simple, functional and easy to wear. It has a gorgeous oversized ribbing at the bottom, that not only gives the sweater a polished look, but looks amazing over jeans, maxi skirts and pants. You could wear this to work or out to dinner under a jacket or over pants… or keep it casual over jeans and a cute skirt!
The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater is a crocheted sweater that you can wear anywhere and across the seasons, is a pattern definitely worth investing your time into!
We are trying to keep all our crochet patterns free for everyone, when you access them online. We meet the costs of running this website through coffee donations at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet and ad revenue. When you buy us a cup of coffee, you buy us a cup of motivation. Thank you for keeping us motivated and inspired every day to keep designing free crochet patterns for you.
The stitch used for the Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater is one of my personal favourites. It’s not overly fussy (meaning I can still easily watch Netflix as I crochet), however the end result is pretty and interesting with a beautiful texture. There are a few rows of double crochet to break up the stitch. We love to add this to our patterns, as we find by doing this it almost highlights the unique stitch even more.
Let’s chat about the amazing yarn we used for this version of the Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater. Its absolutely gorgeous and made by Hobbii. Its 50% cotton and 50% wool and a Weight 3/Light Worsted/DK and you can find all the details below in “Crochet Materials”.
If you have read any previous Kiks + Jack Crochet blogs, you probably know that we like crocheting garments that are warm but not too warm. Layering on and off in the colder months, generally means trying to keep each layer a little lighter and not too heavy. Keeping our crocheted sweaters light also means we can throw another oversized crocheted cardigan on top!
This yarn is the perfect blend with the wool giving the coziness, and the cotton giving it lightness. For this version we used the Melange however they also have gorgeous colours in solid.
Using such a beautiful yarn, we wanted the yarn to shine….and that meant we wanted to keep the Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater simple. We really felt we did that through the simplicity of the pattern. Whatever yarn you choose to use, this is the perfect pattern to let the yarn take centre stage.
If you are looking for more cozy Kiks + Jack Crochet sweaters check out the Wide Shoulder Crochet Sweater and the Fall to Winter Crochet Sweater.
Let’s get started on The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater!
It would be amazing to see a photo of your work in progress for The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater. Tag us and we would love to cheer you on @kiksandjackcrochet.
DESCRIPTION of The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater
The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater is a beautiful yet simple sweater that uses a gorgeous textured stitch along with basic rows of double crochet. It is a more fitted sweater design, although there is still significant positive ease built in. This sweater features a gorgeous oversized ribbing at the bottom and ribbing on the sleeves. The neckline is crew shaped and can be customized wider or tighter.
The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is an advanced beginner pattern and involves a stitch pattern that uses primarily single crochets and double crochets.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES
The pattern instructions for The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” and size inclusive (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.
To use this pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from just below the waist (or where you would like the sweater to end) up to the top of your shoulder at your collarbone.
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end)
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Standard Measurements (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust โ then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
Note: The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweate is designed as classic fit with some positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE
Using a hook size 4.5 (US size 7), approximately 14 double crochet across and 8 rows of double crochet in 4โณ x 4โณ (10 cm x 10 cm).
Note The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges. However try to select a yarn with a similar gauge to this version.
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater
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Yarn brand: Happy Place by Hobbii. Weight 3/Light Worsted/DK. 100g per skein and 273 yards (or 250m) per skein.
Approximately 3.6 skeins or 360 grams and 983 yards (or 900m) used for Kiks + Jacks version (approximately XS) with a finished width of 16 inches and a finished length of 16 inches.
4.5 mm crochet hook (US size 7). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. However our absolute favourite, slightly more pricey crochet hooks are clover crochet hooks. You can buy then in a set or individually. We started our collection just purchasing the size 4 ,5 and 6.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loopโโ)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have four loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops) There are a number of ways to crochet dc2tog, however this is one of the easiest for beginners.
fpdc = front post double crochet (Yarn over and insert your hook from the front side to the back side of your work around the double crochet – the post – from the previous row, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You will now have have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
bpdc = back post double crochet (Yarn over and insert your hook from the back side to the front side of your work around the double crochet – the post – from the previous row, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You will now have have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
sl st = slip stitch (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook)
BLO = back loop only
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater
The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater is made by first crocheting a back panel and an identical front panel. We will crochet the panels bottom up starting with an oversized bottom ribbing and end with the neckline. After we have created the two panels, we will crochet the sleeve panels starting with the ribbing for the sleeves. We will then continue to crochet the sleeves on to the ribbing. Next we will seam the front panel and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam the sides and the sleeves directly on to the panels. We will finish by crocheting a ribbing on to the neckline.
โโPERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT for The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater
Please do not publish or share The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater pattern as your own. You may crochet items to sell using this pattern with permission ([email protected]). Please link back to this post in exchange. Please do NOT use my photos as your own photos.
Crochet Pattern Instructions for The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater
Crochet the Back Panel Ribbing
ch 20
The height of our ribbing is approximately 4 inches (remember it’s oversized). Based on our gauge this is approximately 20 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, on the last st hdc into the entire stitch. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to HALF of your “Chest/Bust Measurement” minus 1 inch.
K+J example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around. Half of 32 inches = 16 inches. We keep repeating row 2 until the total length of the ribbing reaches 15 inches (16 -1 = 15 inches)
Count the total number of rows.
K+J example: We counted a total of 32 rows to achieve a length of 15 inches.
It’s a great time to check if you are completely happy with the width of the sweater before you crochet any further. Place the ribbing up at your waist and bust to see if the width (length of ribbing) is right for you. If you would like it to be wider, crochet a few more rows. If you would like the ribbing to be tighter, then you can frog (unravel) a few rows. Note that the width of the main body will increase a little more depending on your guage.
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Back Panel
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing that you just crocheted.
To calculate the number of stitches that you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your ribbing | We have 32 rows in our ribbing |
| Multiply this by 1.8 (round up or down to a whole number if necessary) | 32 X 1.8 = 57 stitches (rounded down) |
| If this number is NOT a multiple of 3 then increase it until it is a multiple of 3 (divides into 3 evenly). If this number is already a multiple of 3, then leave it as is. | 57 is a multiple of 3 so we keep it as is. |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
In K+J example above we will crochet 57 single crochets across the long side ribbing.
Tip: You may want to place some stitch markers across the ribbing at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 marks. Then divide the number of stitches you need to crochet by 4 to give you a rough idea of how many stitches you need to crochet in each quarter so you can ensure you are crocheting evenly.
Row 2: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc across. Turn
Row 3: ch2, 2dc in 1st st, *sk next 2 st, [1sc, 2dc] in next st, rep from * towards the end of row with 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 4: ch1 (counts as a st), 2dc in 1st st, *sk 2dc [1sc, 2dc] in next st, rep from * towards the end of row with 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 4 should look a little like placing [1sc, 2dc] between the clusters from the previous row.
Row 5-8: repeat row 4
Row 9: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc across ensuring you have the same number of dc as your initial number of sc in row 1. Turn. See example below.
In Kiks + Jack Crochet’s example we would crochet 57 dc across for row 9. We achieved this by crocheting dc at the start and 2dc at the end, and 3dc per cluster. The important thing is to ensure you crochet the same number of stitches as Row 1.
Row 10: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc across, dc into tch. Turn
Row 11: repeat row 3
Row 12-16: repeat row 4
Repeat rows 9 – 16 in that order until the back panel (including ribbing) is equal to your “Finished Length Measurement” – 2 inches (if you want a deeper neckline, then instead of 2 inches, you can increase it to 3 or 4 inches). It’s best if you finish on a row 15 or 16 as the instructions for the neckline will be based on double crochet rows.
Fasten off.
K+J example: Our “Finished Length Measurement” is 16 inches. Therefore we crochet rows 9-16 in that order until the total back panel including the ribbing equals 14 inches (16 – 2 = 14 inches). We make sure we finish on a row 15 or 16.
Crochet the Front Panel
Repeat all the instructions under Back Panel Ribbing and Back Panel so that you have an identical front panel.
Crochet the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel
We will now measure out and crochet the neckline for the two panels. Crocheting two panels first without the neckline allows you “try it on” (see below) and ensure you get the perfect neckline width before you crochet the neckline on to the two panels.
Measure 5 inches in from the left edge of the back panel and place a stitch marker (we will be adjusting the exact inches that is right for you shortly). This will be the start of your neck opening. Repeat the same on the right side of the back panel.
Do the same on the front panel on both sides.
Attach the two panels together lining up the 4 stitch markers and securing the panels together with the stitch markers. Place the panels over your head and double check you are happy with the neck opening. If you would like it tighter then move the stitch markers closer to your neck. If you would like the neck opening wider, then move the stitch markers away from your neck. Make sure it is the same distance (use a measuring tape) on either side and on the front and back panel. Keep in mind we will be adding a ribbing that will close the neckline opening by another inch.
For reference, Kiks + Jack crocheted a size XS and measured 5 inches from each side as we wanted a tighter neckline.
Now that we are happy with the neckline measurements, we will start to crochet it. Start with the back panel and attach the yarn to the first stitch near the left shoulder.
You may want to count your stitches as you crochet across the next 4 rows creating your neckline. You will crochet four rows and you will reduce one stitch in every row through the stitch dc2tog. See “Crochet Stitches & Abbreviations” above for a guide on how to crochet a dc2tog.
Row 1: ch3, dc in the 2nd st and in each st (crocheting towards the neckline stitch marker), stopping 1 st before the st with the stitch marker, dc2tog the next 2 st. Turn
Row 2: ch3, dc2tog the first 2 stitches, dc in the next st and across to the end (heading away from the neckline stitch marker). Turn
Row 3: ch3, dc in the 2nd st and in each st (crocheting towards the centre), stopping 1 st before the last st, dc2tog the next 2 st. Turn
Row 4: repeat row 2
You can do a quick check here to see if 4 rows of neckline works for you. Hold it up against the top of your shoulders and if you think you need to crochet an additional row do so. Remember you will need to repeat this on the other side and on the front panel.
Fasten off.
Repeat Rows 1 – 4 on the right side of the back panel, the left side of the front panel and the right side of the front panel.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel (Make 2)
We will now crochet the two sleeve panels starting with the cuff. Remember you will need to make two identical sleeve panels.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel Ribbed Cuff
ch 12
The height of our sleeve ribbing is approximately 2.5 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 12 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across. Turn.
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, on the last st hdc into the entire stitch. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until the ribbed cuff is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches. Make sure it fits comfortably and is not too tight.
Count the number of rows (we crocheted 20 rows).
Do not fasten off. Turn your ribbing. You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing.
Crochet the Main Sleeve Panel
Note there is a change in the stitch pattern for the sleeve.
To calculate the number of stitches across the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | K+J Example |
| Count the number of rows in the sleeve cuff | We counted 20 rows in our cuff |
| Double the number | 20 x 2 = 40 |
| Adjust the number upwards to ensure it is a multiple of 3 | 42 (40 is not a multiple of 3 so we adjust this to 42 so that it is a multiple of 3) |
Row 1: ch1, sc across the ribbing the total stitches calculated in the table above. Turn.
In K+J example, we would crochet 42 sc across the ribbing. It is going to be tight, however this is normal. You may need to crochet 2sc in to the same stitch to fit in all the stitches evenly.
Row 2: ch3, dc in each st across until the end. Turn.
Row 3-4: repeat row 2
Row 5: ch2, 2dc in 1st st, *sk next 2 st, [1sc, 2dc] in next st, rep from * towards the end of row with 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 6: ch1 (counts as a st), 2dc in 1st st, *sk 2dc [1sc, 2dc] in next st, rep from * towards the end of row with 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 7-10: repeat row 6
Row 11: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc across ensuring you have the same number of dc as your initial number of sc in row 1. Turn.
In our version we would ensure we crochet 42 stitches in Row 11.
Row 12: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc across, dc into tch. Turn
Repeat rows 5 to row 12 until the total length of your sleeve panel, including the cuff, is equal to your “Arm Length Measurement“.
You will later check the sleeve length again under “Assembly” so that you can ensure you have the perfect fit.
Fasten off.
Remember you need to crochet two identical sleeve panels.
Assembling the Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. We understand you have finished and are eager to seam this all together! However blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.
We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panel are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely bone dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder. Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing together. With a yarn needle, seam the two panels together across the shoulders starting from the edge and across. Fasten off.
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Customization Tip: It is a good time to check the length of your sleeve. You can “seam” it with a few locking stitch markers to the main panel. Try it on. If you would like the sleeve to be longer (eg. some like the cuff to be almost at the knuckles vs the wrist), you can remove the knot on your sleeve panel (where you fastened off) then add a few more rows on to your sleeve. Or you can reduce rows if you like your sleeves shorter by removing the knot first and pulling out (frogging) a few rows. Make sure you do the same on the second sleeve so they are identical.
When everything is perfect, using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your sweater is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve. See second diagram below (for illustrative purposes only)
Fasten off.
Step 4: Add the ribbing to the neckline
Turn the sweater right side out. Attach a yarn to the side of the neckline.
Row 1: ch1, sc in the first st, sc evenly around the neckline into every st. The key is to keep the sc even. When you complete the round, sl st to join at the top of the tch.
Row 2: ch3, dc in 2nd st, dc around into every st, when you complete the round, sl st to join at the top of the tch
Row 3: ch3, *fpdc, bpdc, rep from * until end of the round, sl st to the first fpdc. You may need to go up to the section Crochet Stitches & Abbreviations for instructions on how to crochet Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) and Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc).
Row 4: repeat row 3
Fasten off.
Finish & Celebrate the Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Classic Cropped Crochet Sweater and I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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