How to Crochet a Basic Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern that is made to measure, size inclusive and beginner friendly. This pattern is catered for early beginners so the full instructions posted below will be more detailed than usual.
When Kiks + Jack Crochet wrote the pattern Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater we were catering for the courageous beginner! One ready to move from blankets and dish cloths to their first wearable. We wanted to make it so easy and get them to the finish line – so that they could feel that special moment, when you finish your first garment and the crazy rewarding euphoric feeling that comes with it!
The amazing thing was we didn’t realize it was going to be one of our most popular blog posts! It’s so rewarding for us to know that out there in the world beginner crocheters are finishing up their first sweater, wearing it out, knowing it’s unique, home made and one of a kind. In that pattern we stripped out everything we thought may be a “mental obstacle” to someone branching out to crochet sweaters. The ribbing….out. The neckline….simple. Change in stitch pattern…out.
We are trying to keep all our crochet patterns free for everyone, when you access them online. We meet the costs of running this website through coffee donations at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet and ad revenue. When you buy us a cup of coffee, you buy us a cup of motivation. Thank you for keeping us motivated and inspired every day to keep designing free crochet patterns for you.
So we have been wanting to do a follow up pattern to Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater where we use the same beautiful yarn from budget friendly Caron Cakes and add back some very easy features. Think of How to Crochet a Basic Sweater as “Level 2” of Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater. However if you have come to this blog and this is your first time, it’s simple enough to start with too!
Here is what we are going to add back in for this pattern, How to Crochet a Basic Sweater…and if this sounds like TOO big a step, we suggest going back to the pattern Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater and trying that blog first.
1. Ribbing around the bottom and the sleeves
2. A tighter slightly raised crew neckline
3. A bottom up sleeve construction (starting with the ribbing) with shaping
Like all our patterns How to Crochet a Basic Sweater is a made to measure pattern. What this means is we do not tell you the number of stitches required to make a S, M, L, XL etc. Instead we write the pattern based on YOUR measurements and this allows you to create a garment that fits you perfectly AND based on your gauge. Yay for not worrying about perfectly matched gauge swatches!
It can be a hard concept to get your head around. It means we don’t fit ourselves into a commercial category of sizing that is required for big box manufacturers who have to size for the masses. It means we crochet a garment that fits to your measurements – that’s it. We list out all the measurements you will need in the section below, how to measure and we suggest you write them down and have them handy. We will give you calculation examples using our measurements but remember to base them on your own desired measurements.
We have also included a few notes from our previous blog Your First Crochet Beginner Sweater to remind you of some tips and tricks to selecting your yarn if you are starting out:
Select a yarn weight close to 4/medium/worsted. Try to stick to a weight 4/medium/worsted (look on the yarn label). That is what is used for this pattern and although this pattern can accommodate different gauges, it helps to stay closer to a weight 4 for your first-ish crochet sweater.
Select a yarn that feels good and is budget friendly. Pick a yarn that feels soft and one that you would love to wear against your skin. There are many budget friendly yarns out there that feel amazing. This is your first (or second) sweater and you don’t need the added stress of crocheting with super expensive yarn.
Does it frog well? Can you see what your crocheting? If this is your first crochet sweater you may need to frog (unravel) your crochet. Some yarns don’t frog well and get themselves knotted and get really stuck when you pull it out. Try to avoid these types of yarn for your first sweater in case you need to do lots of frogging. Also, don’t get something too fuzzy and furry. A little bit of fuzz can be forgiving if you make a mistake. However a lot of fuzz makes it hard to see and frog.
Consider a stripe or a multi coloured yarn. If you get bored easily when you crochet large projects (it happens to the best of us), you may want to find a gorgeous yarn that is self-striping or multi coloured. The excitement of a colour change or the development of a beautiful ombre as you crochet is going to keep you motivated and interested….and that is one of the most important things for new beginners – to get to the finish line! If you do select a self striping yarn, we suggest you go with flow ie. let the stripes develop as the skein unfolds. It will produce a beautiful modern deconstructed look anyway!
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DESCRIPTION of How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
How to Crochet a Basic Sweater is a long sleeved sweater that is made almost entirely from our favourite stitch, the half double crochet. It features a tighter crew neck design with a slight raise. This can be customized. There is ribbing on the base of the sweater and cuffs and it is designed to be slightly oversized and hit below the waist. We used a self striping yarn.
How to Crochet a Basic Sweater is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is beginner friendly and the Kiks + Jack Crochet version uses weight 4/worsted yarn. As this is a made to measure pattern you can be flexible on your gauge.
This pattern How to Crochet a Basic Sweater is catered for beginners so instructions below will be more detailed.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES for How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
How to Crochet a Basic Sweater pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard sizing for those who wish to use it.
To use this pattern How to Crochet a Basic Sweater you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from your hips (or where you would like the top to end) up to the top of your shoulder.
Armhole Depth: Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit. You may want to check that this measurement – when doubled – is as big as your upper arm circumference (around your bicep). Typically it is, however every body shape is different. If your upper arm circumference is larger, take this measurement instead.
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end)
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist.
Standard Sizing (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for armhole depth – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 6-6.5 (6.5-7, 7-7.5, 7.5-8, 8-8.5, 8.5-9, 9-9.5, 9.5-10, 10-10.5) inches or 15.5-16.5 (16.5-17.5, 17.5-19, 19-20.5, 20.5-21.5, 21.5-23, 23-24, 24-25.5, 25.5-26.5) centimetres
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
Note: How to Crochet a Basic Sweater is designed as a loose fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE for How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
Note the pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges. However if you are new to crochet and this is your first sweater, you may want to select a yarn weight and crochet hook with a similar gauge (although it doesn’t need to match exactly).
Using a hook size 5mm (US size 8), approximately 12 half double crochets across and 11 rows of half double crochet in 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm).
CROCHET MATERIALS for How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
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Yarn brand: Caron Cloud Cakes by Yarnspirations. Weight 4/Medium/Worsted. 240g per skein and 760 yards (or 695m) per skein.
Approximately 1.3 skeins or 1010 yards (or 924m) used for Kiks + Jack’s version of How to Crochet a Basic Sweater (approximately S) with a finished width of 18 inches and a finished length of 19 inches.
Color used is Cork.
Substitute with any Worsted weight yarn 4.
Crochet hook size 5mm (US size 8). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. We also love the slightly more pricey crochet hooks from Clover Crochet Hooks and the beautiful Furls Crochet Hooks (these are so stunning, we just love looking at them!)
Yarn Winder!!! (Our new LOVE). We have held off on a yarn winder for a long time. We love the idea of crochet being simple with just a hook and some yarn. However we decided to get this yarn winder, because it was affordable and we weren’t sure about investing in a super fancy one yet. We love it because it breathes life back into scrappy yarn lying around that looks messy. It’s simple to use and is holding up really well for us.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS for How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
How to Crochet a Basic Sweater pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have five loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all the loops) There are a number of ways to crochet a hdc2tog, however we find this way is great for beginners).
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
How to Crochet a Basic Sweater is made by first crocheting a back panel and a front panel. We will crochet the panels bottom up starting with the ribbing. We will then crochet the sleeve panels bottom up starting with the ribbing. Finally we will seam the front panel and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam sleeves directly on to the panels.
How to Crochet a Basic Sweater is designed to be very simple and beginner friendly, and primarily uses half double crochets.
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You may crochet items to sell using How to Crochet a Basic Sweater pattern upon permission by email at [email protected]. Please link back to this post in exchange.
Crochet Pattern Instructions for How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
Just a note for beginners: If you are using a self striping yarn like the one we used you may want to embrace them and go with the flow. We love the deconstructed look and happy to produce a beautiful sweater wherever the stripes take us. If this really bothers you and you would like to “control” the stripes a little more, you could always select one colour for the ribbing on the front and back panel and on the sleeves. You may need to set this colour aside or purchase another skein just to achieve this.
Crochet the Back Panel Ribbing
ch 12
The height of our ribbing is approximately 3 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 12 chains.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
You should have 10 stitches in the row.
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, on the last st hdc into the entire stitch. Turn
To create the ribbing, you are crocheting only into the back loop as you crochet down the row. You are not crocheting into both loops that make up a stitch except for the last stitch where you will crochet into both loops.
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to HALF of your “Chest/Bust Measurement” plus 2 inches.
| Calculation | Kiks + Jack Crochet’s Example |
| Find your Chest/Bust Measurement as described up in the section “Crochet Measurements & Sizes” | Our Chest/Bust Measurement = 32 inches |
| Divide this measurement by 2 | 32/2 = 16 inches |
| Add 2 more inches (if you like it very oversized you can even add 3 inches) | 16 + 2 inches = 18 inches |
After you have crocheted your desired length, count the total number of rows.
K+J example: We counted a total of 39 rows to achieve a length of approximately 18 inches.
Important Intuitive Check: It’s a great time to do a double check to see if you are completely happy with the width of the sweater before you crochet any further. Place the ribbing up against you to see if the width (length of ribbing) is right for you. If you would like it to be wider and more loose, crochet a few more rows. If you would like the ribbing to be narrower and tighter, then you can frog (unravel) a few rows.
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Back Panel
Take a look at your ribbing. There is a short end (10 stitches long) and a long end (in our case 39 rows equalling 18 inches). You will now be crocheting one row of single crochets down the long end.
To calculate the number of single crochets that you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks + Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your ribbing | We have 39 rows in our ribbing (to achieve 18 inches) |
| Multiply this by 1.5 (round up if necessary) | 39 X 1.5 = 59 stitches (rounded up) |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the long side of the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
In K+J example above we will crochet 59 single crochets in total across the long side of the ribbing.
Tip: You want to try and crochet your number of single crochets evenly down the ribbing. A helpful tip is place a stitch marker at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 mark down the length of the ribbing so that you can try to crochet approximately 25% of your total stitches in each quadrant.
Row 2: ch2, hdc into 1st stitch (st), hdc into next st, hdc into each and every st across the row until the last st. Turn
Here is a reminder on how to do a hdc: Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops.
Repeat row 2 until your back panel reaches a length equal to your “Finished Length Measurement“.
Kiks and Jack wanted this to hit just at the hip so we stopped after the panel equals 18 inches. However once again it is a good time to do an intuitive check on the length. Place the panel up against you. If you would like to make it longer crochet more of row 2. If you would like to make it shorter, remove a few rows. If you made changes, then make sure you update the Finished Length Measurement so that you can crochet an identical length for your front panel.
Fasten off
To fasten off, keep your crochet hook in the loop, cut the yarn and with the crochet hook pull the working yarn through the loop to make a knot. Later we will weave in this end and we like to do it with a yarn needle so we generally keep our tails longer.
Crochet the Front Panel
Follow the instructions from the Back Panel so that you have an identical Front Panel. Remember if you made any adjustments to your back panel, you need to do them to your front panel, so that your front panel is identical to your back panel.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel (Make 2)
We will now crochet the two sleeve panels starting with the cuff. Remember you will need to make two identical sleeve panels.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel Ribbed Cuff
ch 12
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across. Turn.
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across. On the last st, hdc into the whole st. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the ribbed cuff is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches. Make sure it fits comfortably and is not too tight.
Tip: We like the look of oversized sleeves and crochet our sleeves longer, almost at our fingers. We typically add sleeve length (see later) and inches to the wrist circumference to achieve this. If you would like a tighter sleeve cuff then you can frog a few rows to meet your desired tightness. Wrap the ribbing around your wrist and crochet until it reaches your desired length.
Count the number of rows (we crocheted 23 rows).
Do not fasten off. Turn your ribbing. You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing.
Crochet the Main Sleeve Panel
To calculate the number of stitches across the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | K+J Example |
| Count the number of rows in the sleeve cuff | We counted 23 rows in our cuff |
| Multiply by 1.5 and round up if necessary | 23 x 1.5 = 35 stitches |
Row 1: ch1, sc evenly across the ribbing the total stitches calculated in the table above. Turn.
In K+J example, we would crochet 35 single crochets evenly across the ribbing. Once again you may want to place stitch markers at the 1/4,1/2 and 3/4 mark to help you crochet evenly.
Row 2: ch2, hdc in the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn.
Keep repeating row 2 and you should see that the width of the sleeve panel will start to fan out, widen and increase. After several rows, this increase will slow down (and eventually stop however it will depend on your gauge). At this point take a measurement of the width (not length). You will need to increase this width so that it is wide enough to fit the top part of your arm.
To determine this calculate the following: [2 x your “Armhole Depth Measurement” + 1 inch]. You will need to increase the width of your sleeve panel so that it is equal to this calculation. Kiks + Jack’s calculation is 2 x 6.5 inches + 1 = 14 inches so we want to increase the width of the sleeve panel until it is approximately 14 inches wide.
You will increase the width of your panel by crocheting Row A (increasing row) and then Row B (non increasing row).
Row A (increasing row): ch2, 2hdc in the 1st st, hdc across the row, 2hdc in the end st. Turn
Tip: In Row A you are crocheting 2 x half double crochets into the 1st stitch and 2 x half double crochets into the last stitch. This will give you 2 extra stitches in the row and increase the width.
Row B (non increasing row): ch2, hdc in the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end, hdc in the last st. Turn.
Tip: Row B is just a regular Row 2.
As you repeat Row A and Row B the width of your sleeve panel will start to increase again. Repeat Row A and Row B in that order until the width of your sleeve panel is equal to your calculation ie. [2 x armhole depth measurement + 1 inch].
NOTE: You may not need to increase a lot ie. crochet Row As (or possibly none at all) before you reach your desired width. It really will depend on your arm measurements and your gauge.
When the width of your sleeve panel reaches your calculation ie. [2 x armhole depth measurement + 1 inch] repeat Row B only (non increasing row) until the sleeve panel including the cuff, is equal to your desired length ie. “Arm Length Measurement“.
Note we like oversized sleeves and crochet long sleeves past our wrist. However we will show you how to check the sleeve length again under “Assembly” so that you can ensure you have the perfect fit.
Fasten off.
Remember you need to crochet two identical sleeve panels.
Assembling How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. We understand you are eager to seam this all together! However blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.
We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panel are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder. Place a stitch marker approximately 4 inches in from the left side of the front panel. Do the same on the other side and measure 4 inches in from the right side of the front panel and place a stitch marker. Do the same for the back panel. Then attach the panels together at the stitch markers, right sides together.
Tip: What is the “right side”? The official answer is when the panel is on the right side facing up at you, then the starting tail should be on the left side. The unofficial answer for stitches/patterns that are reversible like this one is, it is the side that you like best 🙂
Place the two panels over your head and shift the stitch markers to create a comfortable crew neck opening. Double check to make sure you can place your head easily through the opening. When you are happy, take it off then use a measuring tape to ensure the stitch markers on the front panel are equal on the left and right side and line up with the stitch markers on the back panel.
With a yarn needle, seam the two panels together across the shoulders starting from the edge and up to the stitch markers (remember the panels should be right side together). Fasten off. See diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Time for another check: Before we seam the sleeve to the main panel, “try it on”. We like to “seam the sleeve” together using locking stitch markers. Sometimes we change our minds and want the sleeve longer (almost to our knuckles). Sometimes we want to make it shorter. You can untie the knot at the end of your sleeve and crochet a few more rows or unravel a few rows if you would like to make further adjustments.
When you are happy with everything, use a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (for illustrative purpose only)
Do the same with the other sleeve on the other side.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your sweater is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve. See second diagram below (for illustrative purpose only)
Fasten off.
Finish the neckline
Attach a yarn to the side of the neckline.
Round 1: ch1 (place a stitch marker SM in this chain so you can easily find it), sc evenly around the neckline, when you reach the end of the round, slip stitch (sl st) to the ch1 with the SM.
Tip: It is more important to crochet evenly around the neckline rather than the actual number of stitches.
Round 2: ch2 (add SM), hdc in 1st st, hdc in each st to end of round, sl st to the st with SM
Round 3: repeat Round 2
Fasten off.
Weave In & Celebrate How to Crochet a Basic Sweater
Weave in all your ends. We like to use a yarn needle and sew across in one direction, then sew back in another direction and sew across the opposite direction again.
If you decided to skip the step on blocking your panels, you can still block your sweater after its completed. Pin it to a mat, spray it and let it dry.
Congratulations you have finished How to Crochet a Basic Sweater and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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