The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top is a free and easy crochet pattern that is made to measure, size inclusive and designed to be intuitive. It is written with beginners in mind.
The spring blossoms are out, and with that comes one of our favourite transitional pieces….the crochet mesh sweater top. It feels a little too cold to be wearing tank tops, yet a spring crochet mesh is a little warmer, so easy to wear … and so fast to crochet. It’s strange we associate crochet mesh tops with spring, because we actually wear them right through to fall and layer them under cardigans. They always seem to have incredible drape and you never have to worry about wrinkles!
We are trying to keep all our crochet patterns free for everyone, when you access them online. We meet the costs of running this website through coffee donations at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet and ad revenue. When you buy us a cup of coffee, you buy us a cup of motivation.ย Thank you for keeping us motivated and inspired every day to keep designing free crochet patterns for you.
We love ribbing especially around our warm cozy sweater season….but when we get to spring there is something cool and modern about keeping those sleeves long. It looks a little more deconstructed and casual. The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top stitch pattern takes a little concentration at first, but once you understand it, it’s a 2 row repeat pattern.
Do you love the neckline? We made ours wide and off one shoulder, however you can easily customize it to your own design with this made to measure pattern.
We also love the change of pattern on the sleeve. It highlights the beautiful stitch on the main panel AND will keep you excited and motivated moving to a new stitch pattern.
The other thing we love about the Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top top is our selected yarn. It’s not one we have worked with before but it’s super budget friendly and super soft. We are definitely going to work with it more and we give you all the details and where to buy it below in “Crochet Materials”.
If you love mesh tops check out The Coral Bay Mesh Top and The Jimbaran Crochet Mesh Net Top.
Let’s get started on the The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top!
It would be amazing to see a photo of your work in progress. Tag us and we would love to cheer you on @kiksandjackcrochet.
DESCRIPTION of The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top
The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top is a light mesh top sweater. It features an oversized design and long sleeves. There is no ribbing on the base of the top or sleeves. The neckline is wide and has a raw patterned edge. It can be customized to be tighter or customized to be off the shoulder. The stitches used to create the mesh are simple and beginner friendly.
The sleeve panels have a different stitch pattern that is also easy and beginner friendly. They are designed to be oversized and wide.
The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. This pattern is suitable for beginners.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS
The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” and size inclusive (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.
To use the Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from just above your hips (or where you would like the top to end) up to the top of your shoulder. We wanted our top to hit a little lower than the waistline so we could tuck it in.
Armhole Depth: Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end). We typically take our measurement to just below the wrist.
Standard Sizing (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust โ then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for armhole depth – then use approximately 6-6.5 (6.5-7, 7-7.5, 7.5-8, 8-8.5, 8.5-9, 9-9.5, 9.5-10, 10-10.5) inches or 15.5-16.5 (16.5-17.5, 17.5-19, 19-20.5, 20.5-21.5, 21.5-23, 23-24, 24-25.5, 25.5-26.5) centimetres
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
Note: Designed as a classic fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE
Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook (US size 7), approximately 18 stitches and 8 rows of double crochet in 4โณ x 4โณ (10 cm x 10 cm).
Note this pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges. However you should try to select a yarn and hook with a similar gauge to this version.
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top
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Yarn brand: We love this budget friendly yarn called Red Heart Soft. We purchased it as a pack of 3 making it super affordable. Weight 4/Worsted/ Medium. 141 g per skein and 256 yards (or 234 m).
Kiks + Jack Crochet’s version is approximately XS and had a finished width of approximately 18 inches and a finished length of 19 inches and used approximately 3 skeins, 765 yards (or 700 m).
Color used is Blush
4.5 mm crochet hook (US size 7). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. However our absolute favourite, slightly more pricey crochet hooks are clover crochet hooks. You can buy then in a set or individually.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top pattern uses US terminology.
ch = chain
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
ch-sp = chain space (You are crocheting into the space from the previous row – not the chain)
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top
The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top is made by first crocheting a back panel and then crocheting a front panel. We will crochet the panels bottom up. We will measure out and crochet the neckline. Then we will crochet the sleeve panels using a different crochet stitch pattern. Next we will seam the front panel and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam the sides and the sleeves directly on to the panels.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT for The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may crochet items to sell using The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top pattern with permission ([email protected]). Please link back to this post in exchange. Please do NOT use my photos as your own photos.
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS for The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top
Crochet the Main Back Panel
Calculate the length of your foundation chain as follows:
| Halve your โChest/Bust Measurementโ | Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around Half our chest/bust measurement = 16 inches |
| Add additional 2 inches for positive ease. If you would like it more oversized then you can add 3-4 inches. Note that mesh stitches do not expand as much as solid stitches (before blocking), however it will depend on how stretchy your yarn is. | 16 + 2 = 18 inches |
Chain a length as calculated above counting the number of chains at the same time. Do not pull the chain too tight when you measure it.
Make sure you finish on a multiple of 12 (total chains divides evenly into 12). If you do not finish on a multiple of 12 then increase the number of chains so that you finish on a multiple of 12. If you think this may give you too much positive ease (especially if you increased it to an additional 3-4 inches) you can also remove chains until you finish on a multiple of 12.
Add one more additional chain.
Kiks + Jack Example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around and we have to chain 18 inches as per our calculation above. We reached 18 inches after chaining 56 chains. 56 is not a multiple of 12 so we increase the chain to 60 chains which is a multiple of 12. We then add one more chain to make the total chains equal to 61 chains.
Row 1: ch1, sc into 2nd st from hook, sc across to end of row. Turn
Row 2: ch3, 2dc into 1st st, *ch3, sk 3st (skip next 3 stitches), sc in next st, ch5, sk 3st, sc in next st, ch3, sk 3st, [2dc,ch1,2dc] in next st, rep from * across towards end, ending with 3dc in last st. Turn
Row 3: ch3, 2dc in 1st st, *dc in next ch-3 sp (chain 3 space), ch3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp**, [2dc,ch1,2dc] in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across ending at **, sk 2st, 3dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 4: ch3, 2dc in 1st st, *ch3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch3 **, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across ending at **, sk 3st, 3dc in top of tch. Turn
It’s a great time to check if you are completely happy with the width of the sweater before you crochet any further. You may want to hold it up against you after 4 rows of crochet to see if the width still works for you. If it’s perfect keep going. If you would like to make changes to the width, it is best to start again increasing or decreasing the number of chains that you originally used making sure you follow all the instructions related to the stitch multiple.
Repeat rows 3-4 in that order, until the back panel reaches a length equal to your “Finished length measurement” minus 2 inches (if you want a deeper neckline, then instead of 2 inches, you can increase it to 3-4 inches). End on a row 4.
Fasten off.
Crochet the Front Panel
Repeat all the instructions under the Back Panel so that you have an identical front panel.
Measure out the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel
We will now measure out the neckline for the two panels.
Take the back panel. Place a stitch marker at the centre of the first [2dc,ch1,2dc] cluster row and at the last [2dc,ch1,2dc] cluster row. This will be the start of your neck opening. If you are able to move your stitch marker to the next [2dc,ch1,2dc] cluster on both sides (ie. narrowing the neckline) and you would like to make the neckline narrower, then do so. If not, then keep the stitch markers at the centre of the first and last [2dc,ch1,2dc] cluster row (it will depend on the width of your panel).
Do the same on the front panel ie. attach stitch markers on the front panel on both sides so that they match the back panel.
Tip: You can attach the two panels using locking stitch markers and place the panels over your head. Take a look if the neckline works for you.
(If you are an advanced crocheter you can move the stitch markers outside of the clusters, however the instructions given below will be based on the assumption that the stitch markers are based in the centre of the cluster as this is easier for beginners).
For reference, Kiks + Jack crocheted a size XS and placed a stitch marker in the centre of the first and last cluster row on each panel. This gave us a wide off the shoulder neckline and was equal to approximately 4 inches on each side.
Crochet the Neckline on the Back and and Front Panel
Now that we have measured the neckline, we will start to crochet it. Start with the back panel and attach the yarn to the first stitch near the left shoulder. The instructions below depend on where your stitch marker is placed.
If your stitch markers are placed in the centre of the first and last [2dc,ch1,2dc] cluster row (ie. similar to Kiks + Jacks version), then:
Row 1: ch3, 2dc in 1st st, *dc in next ch-3 sp, ch3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp, 3dc in next ch-1 sp (where the stitch marker has been placed – remove first). Turn
Row 2: ch3, 2dc in 1st st, *ch3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch3, 3dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 3: ch3, 2dc in 1st st, *dc in next ch-3 sp, ch3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp, 3dc in top of tch. Turn
Repeat rows 2-3 in that order until the entire top is equal to the “Finished Length Measurement”.
Fasten off.
Repeat on the right side of the back panel and both sides on the front panel.
Move to “Crochet the Sleeve Panel”.
If your stitch markers are placed in the centre of a [2dc,ch1,2dc] cluster row that is not the first or last cluster row, but is closer in, then:
Row 1: ch3, 2dc in 1st st, *dc in next ch-3 sp, ch3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp, [2dc,ch1,2dc] in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across until you reach the stitch with the stitch marker and remove the stitch marker, then crochet 3dc in this ch-1 sp. Turn
Row 2: ch3, 2dc in 1st st, *ch3, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch5, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch3, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across ending with 3dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 3: ch3, 2dc in 1st st, *dc in next ch-3 sp, ch3, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp, [2dc,ch1,2dc] in next ch-1 sp, rep from * across ending with 3dc in top of tch. Turn
Repeat rows 2-3 in that order until the entire top is equal to the “Finished Length Measurement”.
Fasten off.
Repeat on the right side of the back panel and both sides on the front panel.
Move to “Crochet the Sleeve Panel”.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel (Make 2)
We will now crochet the two sleeve panels. Remember you will need to make two identical sleeve panels.
Calculate the length of your foundation chain as follows:
| Take your “Armhole Depth Measurement” and double it. | Our armhole depth measurement is 6.5 inches. Doubling it = 13 inches. |
| Add additional 1-2 inches for positive ease. A larger positive ease will also give a wider sleeve | 13 + 1 = 14 inches. |
Chain a length as calculated above counting the number of chains at the same time. Do not pull the chain too tight when you measure it.
Make sure you finish on an ODD number of chains. If you finish on an even number of chains then chain one more to make the total an odd number of chains.
Example: We have to chain 14 inches as per our calculation above. We reached 14 inches after chaining 64 chains (an even number) so we add one more chain so the total is 65 chains which is an odd number.
Row 1: ch 4, dc into 7th ch from hook, *ch1, sk 1 st, dc into next st, rep from * to end. Turn
Row 2: ch4, dc into top of next dc from previous row, *ch1, dc into next dc from previous row, rep from * to end, ending with dc in 3rd ch of tch. Turn
In row 2 you are effectively crocheting a large mesh on top of the mesh square from the previous row.
Row 3: ch4, dc into top of next dc from previous row, *ch1, dc into next dc from previous row, rep from * to end, ending with dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 4: repeat row 3
Row 5: ch3, *dc into the 1st ch-sp, dc into the next st, rep from * until the end with a dc in the top of tch. Turn
Row 6: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc in each st across the row, dc into top of tch. Turn
Row 7: ch3, dc into 3rd st, *ch1, sk 1 st, dc into next st, rep from * to end, ending with dc in 3rd ch of tch. Turn
Repeat rows 3-6 in that order until the total length of the sleeve panel is equal to your “Arm Length Measurement“. End on a row 5 or 6 (a double crochet row).
You will check the sleeve length again under “Assembly” so that you can ensure you have the perfect fit.
Fasten off.
Remember you need to crochet two identical sleeve panels.
Assembling The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a professional look.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder. Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing together. With a yarn needle, seam the two panels together across the shoulders starting from the edge and across. Fasten off.
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam.
Note that the top of the sleeve should be the side where you finished with the double crochet row. This means the beautiful mesh that you started with is at the bottom of the sleeve.
Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Customization Tip: It is a good time to check the length of your sleeve. You can “seam” it with a few locking stitch markers to the main panel. Try it on. If you would like the sleeve to be longer (eg. some like the cuff to be almost at the knuckles vs the wrist), you can remove the knot on your sleeve panel (where you fastened off) then add a few more rows on to your sleeve. Or you can reduce rows if you like your sleeves shorter by removing the knot first and pulling out (frogging) a few rows. Make sure you do the same on the second sleeve so they are identical. End on a double crochet row.
When everything is perfect, using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your sweater is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve. See second diagram below (for illustrative purposes only)
Fasten off.
Finish & Celebrate the Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Spring to Summer Light Mesh Crochet Top and I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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