The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan is a crochet pattern for you to view for free below. It is made to measure, size inclusive and designed and written specifically for beginners.
This is our first scrappy yarn garment…well sort of. We haven’t had that much success with scrap yarn projects in the past. It was more the case that our scrap yarn just didn’t look great together. As much as we love “not wasting” yarn, a scrap yarn wearable still has to look good enough for us to want to wear it. Otherwise it sits at the back of our wardrobe!
But the Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan cardigan was easy and we love the way it turned out. It was 3 skeins of the same type in different colour variations. There wasn’t really enough of each colour for anything…except a scrap yarn cardigan! It ended up looking great, took the guess work out and felt like we were using up our stash instead of purchasing more.
Like all our patterns, the Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan is made to measure….and made to measure is best for scrap yarn projects. When you have random scrap yarn, having a pattern that’s flexible on the gauge is really useful!
We always wanted to write a “sister pattern” to the Petra Easy Textured Crochet Sweater. The beautiful textured stitch on the main panels, and the more basic arm panels was something we carried over for this Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan. The difference is we used one colour for the sweater, and 3 scrap yarn skeins for the cardigan!
We love the final outcome! It has all the vibe of a scrap yarn project, and whilst it technically was scrap yarn, using the same type made the cardigan look cohesive and the colours, complementary. We integrated the 3 skeins in evenly line by line. Of course, like all scrap yarn bundles we didn’t have even amounts of each, so one skein dominated the other. The best part is that we probably can’t re-create this version of the Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan exactly! It’s one of a kind.
We are trying to keep all our crochet patterns free for everyone, when you access them online. We meet the costs of running this website through coffee donations at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet and ad revenue. When you buy us a cup of coffee, you buy us a cup of motivation. Thank you for keeping us motivated and inspired every day to keep designing free crochet patterns for you.
Here are some tips for using scrap yarn for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan:
i) Get the colours right for you! The only rule is that you have to like it. Put them together in front of you and pick and choose. Consider textures too.
ii) Try to keep the weights the same. This is one of the reasons why it’s great to use scrap yarn from the same yarn family. If they aren’t, then you could also check the labels and/or crochet mini swatches to try to make sure they are of similar gauge. You could combine two thin weight yarns to make up a worsted weight too!
iii) Work out if you have enough scrap yarn to make the cardigan. Start by weighing the yarn. Then if you still have the label or can find it online, work out the amount of yardage you have. How do you do this? If you have 150 grams of yarn, and one skein has 100 grams of yarn equal to 257 yards, then you have 150/100 x 257 = 385.5 yards. How do you know how many yards you need? We love using this estimate from Lion Brand Yarns and you can use our measurement estimates below too.
iv) Enjoy the process. Using up your stash is supposed to be uplifting and rewarding. Some crocheters just go with the flow and marvel in “not wasting”, loving the fact they made something beautiful and useful out of scrap yarn!
Let’s get started on the Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan!
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DESCRIPTION of The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan is a textured cardigan that uses primarily three different stitches. The cardigan is designed to be oversized and features ribbing at the bottom and ribbing on the sleeves. The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan can be worn all season and features a small simple collar and opening. There is a simple stitch change for the sleeves and we add buttons and pockets.
We used three skeins of scrap yarn from the same yarn family. Feel free to incorporate any scrap yarn that works for you as the main purpose is using up your stash and not purchasing more.
The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan is a free and easy crochet pattern available as a size inclusive made to measure pattern. It is “advanced beginner” friendly and we used weight 4/medium/ worsted yarn. The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan pattern can accommodate for different gauges.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
The pattern instructions for Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.
To crochet the Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from where you would like the cardigan to end, up to the top of your shoulder. We wanted our cardigan to hit well below our hips.
Length to Armpit Measurement: Measure from where you would like the cardigan to end up to your armpit.
Upper Arm Measurement: Measure around the widest section of the upper arm located above the elbow eg bicep
Arm Length: With arm slightly bent, measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end)
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist.
Standard Sizing (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust โ then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
If you would like to use standard sizing for upper arm – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 9.75 (10.25, 11, 12, 13.5, 15.5, 17, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 25 (26, 28, 30.5, 34.5, 39.5, 43, 47, 49.5) centimetres
Note: The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan is designed as an oversized fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
Note: The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan pattern is made to measure and can accommodate for different crochet gauges. However it’s best to select scrap yarn with a similar gauge to this version.
For Kiks + Jack Crochet’s version: Using a hook size 5 (US size 8), approximately 14 half double crochet across and 12 rows of half double crochet in 4โณ x 4โณ (10 cm x 10 cm).
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
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Yarn brand: Jewelspun Aran by Sirdar. Weight 4/Worsted/Medium. 200g per skein and 546 yards (or 500m) per skein.
You can also purchase Jewel Spun by Sirdar on Amazon here.
Approximately 2.6 skeins or 500 grams and 1365 yards (or 1300m) used for Kiks + Jacks version of the Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan (approximately XS) with a finished width of 18 inches and a finished length of 24 inches.
We had three colours in our stash of differing amounts: Glacier, Daybreak Delta and Setting Sun.
Large Buttons: We purchased these 1 inch (approx) brown buttons from Amazon for our version of The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan. They are of great quality, come in a number of natural colours and are budget friendly. We used 5 buttons for our version. Our instructions are based on this button size so you may want to purchase buttons of similar width.
5mm crochet hook (US size 8) and 4mm crochet hook (US size 6). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. We also love the slightly more pricey crochet hooks from Clover Crochet Hooks and the beautiful Furls Crochet Hooks (these are so stunning, we just love looking at them!)
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon (we love the pastel colours).
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loopโโ)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
fptc = front post triple crochet (Yarn over twice and insert your hook from the front side to the back side of your work around the desired double crochet – the post – from the previous 2 rows, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. [Yarn over and draw through 2 loops] x 3 times)
Bead Stitch (BS): 1dc into the required st. *Yarn over, insert hook behind the post of the dc from right to left, and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 5 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through first 6 loops. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have five loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all the loops) There are a number of ways to crochet a hdc2tog, however I find this way is great for beginners. Feel free to use another technique for hdc2tog if that works better for you.
sl st = slip stitch (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook)
BLO = back loop only
ch-3 sp = chain 3 space (eg. crochet into the space and not the stitch)
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise in the Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan pattern, turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan is made by first crocheting a back panel ribbing and then crocheting the main back panel. We will then crochet two front panels, starting with the ribbing and this will make up the front of the cardigan. There will be some shaping on the front panels near the neckline.
We will then crochet the sleeve panels starting with the cuff and then crochet the sleeve panel until it reaches the required length. We will seam the two front panels and the back panels at the shoulder and then seam sleeves directly on to the panels.
We show you how to crochet a small collar around the neckline. We will also show you how to crochet edging for your buttons and button holes. Finally we crochet two pockets and sew these on to The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
You may not publish or share any pattern on this website www.kiksandjackcrochet as your own including this pattern The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan. Except as permitted by the copyright law applicable to you, you may not reproduce or communicate any of the content on this website, including files downloadable from this website, without the permission of the copyright owner, Kiks + Jack Crochet.
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You may crochet items to sell using The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan pattern upon permission by email at [email protected]. Please link back to this post in exchange.
Crochet Pattern Instructions for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
Use the larger hook size unless indicated otherwise.
Crochet the Back Panel Ribbing
Use one “colour” for the ribbing (we had 3 skeins and used the skein with the greatest amount).
ch 12
The height of our ribbing is approximately 2.5 inches. Based on our gauge this is approximately 12 chains. However you can adjust the number of chains if you want to change the height of the ribbing or you are using a yarn with a different gauge.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc into the entire stitch on the last st. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to HALF of your “Chest/Bust Measurement” plus 2 inches.
K+J example: Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around. Half of 32 inches = 16 inches. We keep repeating row 2 until the total length of the ribbing reaches 18 inches (16 + 2 = 18 inches)
Count the total number of rows.
K+J example: We counted a total of 44 rows to achieve a length of approximately 18 inches.
It’s a great time to check if you are completely happy with the width of the sweater ribbing before you crochet any further. Place the ribbing up against you to see if the width (length of ribbing) is right for you. If you would like it to be wider, crochet a few more rows. If you would like the ribbing to be tighter, then you can frog (unravel) a few rows. Note depending on your gauge, the width may increase slightly.
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Back Panel
We will now start incorporating the scrap yarn. Kiks + Jack Crochet had 3 different skeins with 3 different amounts. We switched up our skeins after 2 rows. By incorporating different colours every 2 rows, we found the colours blended in better and we loved the overall homogenous look. However feel free to incorporate the scrap yarn in a way that looks best for your scrap yarn.
We started with one skein, then switched to the second skein after 2 rows, and then switched to the third skein after 2 rows. When we had 3 skeins rotating we cut at the end of the row and incorporated the yarn from the next skein. When the third skein ran out and we only had 2 skeins going, we did not cut off after each row. We brought the new skein up the side of the panel. This reduced the amount of weaving in we had to do at the end but it was important to hide these ends during seaming. Feel free to do what is best for you and it will depend on the colours you are using and the contrast.
Crochet the Back Panel
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing that you just crocheted.
To calculate the number of stitches that you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your ribbing | We have 44 rows in our ribbing |
| Multiply this by 1.5 | 44 X 1.5 = 66 stitches |
| If this number is NOT a multiple of 2 then add 1 so it is an even number. If this number is already a multiple of 2, then leave it as is. | 66 is a multiple of 2 so we leave it as is. |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
In K+J example above we crochet 66 single crochets across the long side ribbing.
Tip: You may want to place some stitch markers across the ribbing at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 marks. Then divide the number of stitches you need to crochet by 4 to give you a rough idea of how many stitches you need to crochet in each quarter so you can ensure you are crocheting evenly.
Row 2: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
For our version we switched to skein 2.
Row 3: rep row 2
Row 4: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc in each st across. Turn
For our version we switched to skein 3….and so on. We continued to follow this pattern of switching the skeins after every 2 rows (for brevity, we will not incorporate these skein colour switches in the instructions below)
Row 5: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 6: ch3, sk first st *1 FPTC around next dc (2 rows below), 1 dc in next sc (you will skip the sc behind the post stitch just made), rep from * across ending with a dc in the last st. Turn
Here are the Front Post Triple Crochet (FPTC) instructions again for your convenience: Yarn over TWICE. Locate the desired double crochet from 2 rows below (the post). Insert your hook from the front side to the back side of your work around the desired double crochet, coming up on the opposite side of the stitch. You are effectively working your hook around the post from front to back. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops again. Yarn over and draw through the 2 loops one final time.
Tip: The Front Post Triple Crochets will look raised and row 6 will look like they are on every 2nd double crochet from the previous two rows.
Row 7: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 8: ch3, sk 1st st, *1dc in next st, 1 FPTC around next dc (2 rows below), rep from * across ending with a dc in the last st. Turn
Tip: The Front Post Triple Crochets from row 8 will look like they sit between the FPTCs from the previous row. ie. its an alternating front post triple crochet.
Row 9: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 10: rep row 6
Row 11: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 12-13: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 14: ch3, *sk st, BS into next st, rep* until the end of row finishing with 1dc into the last st. Turn
Here are the Bead Stitch (BS) instructions again for your convenience: 1dc into the required st (don’t forget this step). *Yarn over, insert hook behind the post of the dc from right to left, and pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 5 loops on the hook. Repeat * one more time around the same dc post. You should now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through first 6 loops. Yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook.
Row 15: ch1, sc in the 1st st, sc across until the end. Turn
Tip: You can also crochet this row as a sc in the top of the bead and a sc between the beads
Row 16: rep row 14 (and ensure your beads are directly above the bead stitch from the previous row)
Row 17: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Repeat rows 2-17 in that order until the back panel (including ribbing) is equal to your “Finished Length Measurement“. As you will be seaming the back panel, it would be best to not finish on the bead stitch row (row 14 or 16).
Crochet the Main Front Panel Ribbing
Consider what colours you want to crochet the main front panel ribbing. We used different colours, however you may want it to be the same as the back panel ribbing.
You will now crochet 2 panels that will make up the front of your cardigan. The length of each front panel ribbing is calculated as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Calculate the number of rows you crocheted in your back panel ribbing | We crocheted a total of 44 rows in our back panel ribbing |
| Multiply by 0.8 and round up to a whole number | 44 rows x 0.8 = 36 rows |
| Divide by 2 | 36 rows divided by 2 = 18 rows |
ch 12
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc into the entire st on the last st. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the total number of rows in your ribbing is equal to the number of rows you calculated above.
Kiks + Jack Crochet example: Based on our measurement, we keep repeating row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is 18 rows
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Main Front Panel
Remember you will need to be incorporating your scrap yarn in a similar way to your main back panel. At this point, Kiks + Jack was down to 2 skeins as the third skein had run out. We were changing skeins every 2 rows and bringing the yarn up the sides.
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing.
To calculate the number of stitches you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks+Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your front panel ribbing | We have 18 rows in our ribbing |
| Multiply this by 1.5 | 18 X 1.5 = 27 |
| Round down to the nearest multiple of 2. If the number is already a multiple of 2 then keep it as is. | We round to 26 single crochets. |
Row 1: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc into the first st, sc across the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
In Kiks + Jack Crochet example above we will crochet 26 single crochets across the long side of the ribbing.
Row 2: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 3: rep row 2
Row 4: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc in each st across. Turn
Row 5: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 6: ch3, sk first st *1 FPTC around next dc (2 rows below), 1 dc in next sc (you will skip the sc behind the post stitch just made), rep from * across ending with a dc in the last st. Turn
Row 7: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 8: ch3, sk 1st st, *1dc in next st, 1 FPTC around next dc (2 rows below), rep from * across ending with a dc in the last st. Turn
Row 9: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 10: rep row 6
Row 11: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 12-13: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 14: ch3, *sk st, BS into next st, rep* until the end of row finishing with 1dc into the last st. Turn
Row 15: ch1, sc in the 1st st, sc across until the end. Turn
Row 16: rep row 14
Row 17: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Repeat rows 2-17 in that order until the front panel (including ribbing) is equal to your “Length to Armpit Measurement“. End on either row 6, 8, 10, 14 or 16.
Kiks and Jack crocheted rows 2-17 in that order until our front panel reached a length of 18 inches (our Length to Armpit Measurement). We finished on row 14.
We are now going to do some light shaping around the neckline. This means the front panel will now start to angle up towards the shoulders.
Do not fasten off
Shape for the neckline
We are assuming you have just completed a row 6, 8, 10, 14 or 16. This panel will be crocheted as the right side of your front panel (when worn). We will now shape for the neckline. What this means is we are going to drop a stitch on certain rows to reduce the row length. As this pattern is written for beginners, we are going to shape on the easier sc and hdc rows.
Place your panel in front of you with the correct side facing up. The correct side has all the texture from the FPTC rows facing you. The working yarn should be on the left side of your panel and your next row should be either a row 7, 9, 11, 15 or 17.
Kiks and Jack finished on a row 14 so we have started the instructions below on row 15. However if your next row is row 7, 9, 11 or 17 you can start there and follow the instructions through in rotation. You only need to crochet as many rows as required to reach your “Finished Length Measurement” ie. it is equal to the length of your back panel.
Tip: As you start shaping the front panel, make intuitive checks by placing the panel up against you. We generally like to reduce the width by 30-40% however this depends on different body shapes and preferences. If you want to stop shaping, you can simply stop crocheting the shaping rows below and crochet the regular rows above. Regular intuitive checks work best. Remember you will be adding an edging and a collar that sits over this shaping, so don’t worry if your neckline isn’t super straight.
Shaping Rows are as follows: (start on your next row, ours was Row 15, and only complete as many as you need to reach your “Finished Length Measurement”)
Row 15: ch1, sc in the 1st st, sc across until the second last st. Stop and turn.
Row 16: ch3, BS into the 3rd st directly above the bead in the previous row, *sk st, BS into next st, rep* until the end of row finishing with 1dc into the last st. Turn
Row 17: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row ending with hdc between the bead and the tch. Turn
We will now return back to “row 2” to follow our stitch pattern of rows 2-17
Row 2: ch2, hdc into the 2nd st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 3: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 4: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc in each st across. Turn
Row 5: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across (do not 1sc in top of tch). Turn
Note: For rows 6, 8 and 10 your turning chains may seem to be hanging loose, but we will bring them in when we edge your collar. We will also crochet a collar that sits over this neckline.
Row 6: ch3, sk first st *1 FPTC around next dc (2 rows below), 1 dc in next sc (you will skip the sc behind the post stitch just made), rep from * across ending with a dc in the last st. Turn
Row 7: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across (do not 1sc in top of tch). Turn
Row 8: ch3, sk 1st st, *1dc in next st, 1 FPTC around next dc (2 rows below), rep from * across ending with a dc in the last st. Turn
Row 9: ch1, 1sc in 1st st, 1sc in each st across (do not 1sc in top of tch). Turn
Row 10: rep row 6
Row 11: ch1, sc into the 1st st, sc in each st across until the end. Turn
Row 12: ch2, hdc into the 2nd st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 13: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc in each st across until the second last st. Turn
Row 14: ch3, *sk st, BS into next st, rep* until the end of row finishing with 1dc into the last st. Turn
Fasten off when you have reached your Finished Length Measurement.
Crochet the Second Front Panel
We will now crochet the second front panel on the left side when worn.
Repeat all the instructions above under “Crochet the Main Front Panel Ribbing”.
Then, repeat all the instructions above under “Crochet the Main Front Panel”
Shape for the neckline
Once again, we are assuming you have just completed a row 6, 8, 10, 14 or 16. This panel will be crocheted as the left side of your front panel (when worn)
Place your panel in front of you with the correct side facing up. The correct side has all the texture from the FPTC rows facing you. The working yarn should be on the left side of your panel and your next row should be either a row 7, 9, 11, 15 or 17.
Kiks and Jack finished on a row 14 so we have started the instructions on row 15. However if your next row is row 7, 9, 11 or 17 you can start there and follow the instructions through in rotation. You only need to crochet as many rows as required to reach your “Finished Length Measurement” ie. it is equal to the length of your back panel.
Tip: Don’t forget to make those intuitive checks and this time you will have the other front panel to use as a guide. You should shape your left panel so it is similar to your right panel.
Shaping Rows are as follows: (start on your next row, ours was Row 15, and only complete as many as you need to reach your “Finished Length Measurement”)
Row 15: ch1, sc in the 2nd st, sc across until the last st. Turn
Row 16: ch3, BS into the st directly above the bead from the previous row, *sk st, BS into next st, rep* until the end of row finishing with 1dc into the last st. Turn
Row 17: ch2, hdc into the 2nd st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
We will now return back to “row 2” to follow our stitch pattern of rows 2-17
Row 2: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 3: ch2, hdc into the 2nd st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 4: ch3, dc into 2nd st, dc in each st across. Turn
Row 5: ch1, 1sc in 2nd st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 6: ch3, sk first st *1 FPTC around next dc (2 rows below), 1 dc in next sc (you will skip the sc behind the post stitch just made), rep from * across ending with a dc in the last st. Turn
Row 7: ch1, 1sc in 2nd st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 8: ch3, sk 1st st, *1dc in next st, 1 FPTC around next dc (2 rows below), rep from * across ending with a dc in the last st. Turn
Row 9: ch1, 1sc in 2nd st, 1sc in each st across, 1sc in top of tch. Turn
Row 10: rep row 6
Row 11: ch1, sc into the 2nd st, sc in each st across until the end. Turn
Row 12: ch2, hdc into the 1st st, hdc across the row until the end. Turn
Row 13: ch2, hdc into the 2nd st, hdc in each st across until the second last st. Turn
Row 14: ch3, *sk st, BS into next st, rep* until the end of row finishing with 1dc into the last st. Turn
Fasten off when you have reached your Finished Length Measurement.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel (Make 2)
Don’t forget to incorporate your scrap yarn together in a similar manner to your back and front panels.
We will now crochet the two sleeve panels starting with the cuff. Remember you will need to make two identical sleeve panels.
Crochet the Sleeve Panel Ribbed Cuff
Consider what colours you want to crochet the sleeve panel ribbing.
ch 12
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across. Turn.
Row 2: ch2, hdc BLO in each st across, hdc into the entire stitch on the last st. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until the ribbed cuff is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches. Make sure it fits comfortably and is not too tight.
Count the number of rows (we crocheted 22 rows).
Do not fasten off. Turn your ribbing. You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing.
Crochet the Main Sleeve Panel
Note the stitch design is different on the sleeve panels compared to the back and front panel.
To calculate the number of stitches across the ribbing, calculate as follows:
| Calculation | K+J Example |
| Count the number of rows in the sleeve cuff | We counted 22 rows in our cuff |
| Double the number | 22 x 2 = 44 |
Row 1: ch1, sc across the ribbing the total stitches calculated in the table above. Turn.
Tip: It will be tight. This is normal. Again you may want to place some stitch markers across the ribbing at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 marks. Then divide the number of stitches you need to crochet by 4 to give you a rough idea of how many stitches you need to crochet in each quarter so you can ensure you are crocheting evenly.
In the Kiks + Jack version we crocheted 44 sc down the long side of the ribbing.
Row 2: ch3, dc in 2nd st, dc across the row until the end, dc in top of tch. Turn
Optional Sleeve Width Increase: Repeat row 2 for approximately halfway up your forearm. Next measure the width of your sleeve panel. If it is less than the widest part of your arm (usually the bicep and called the upper arm measurement) you will need to start increasing the width of the sleeve panel by adding 2 stitches in every other row. On the other hand if it is wide enough, do not expand and repeat regular Row 2s. If you do need to increase the width you would do as follows:
Row 2 (expand): ch3, dc in 1st st, dc across, 2dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 2 (regular): ch3, dc in 2nd st, dc across the row until the end, dc in top of tch. Turn
You should crochet one row of “regular” Row 2 and one row of Row 2 (expand) and repeat, until the width of your sleeve panel increases to your “Upper Arm Measurement” + 1 inch. At this point, only crochet regular Row 2s.
Note this is optional and we did not need to do this for Kiks and Jack’s versions. It will depend on individual measurements and your yarn.
Repeat row 2 until the total length of your sleeve panel, including the cuff, is equal to your “Arm Length Measurement“.
You will later check the sleeve length again under “Assembly” so that you can ensure you have the perfect fit.
Fasten off.
Remember you need to crochet two identical sleeve panels.
Assembling The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembling the Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan. Blocking your panels will set your panels evenly and give it a polished look.
We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panels are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panels at the shoulder.
Place a front panel on top of the back panel and lined up at the side and shoulder with the right sides facing together and the shaping down the centre. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the panel together across the shoulders. Start from the edge and seam up to the end of the front panel. Fasten off. Do the same with the second front panel on the other side of the back panel.
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Customization Tip: It is a good time to check the length of your sleeve. You can “seam” the sleeve panel with a few locking stitch markers to the main panel. Try it on.
If you would like the sleeve to be longer (eg we love oversized sleeves that go past our fingers), you can add a few more rows on to your sleeve. You do this by unknotting your final knot where you fastened off at the end of the sleeve panel, attach matching yarn and crochet a few more rows. Or you can reduce rows if you like your sleeves shorter. You do this by unknotting your final knot where you fastened off and pulling out (frogging) the rows. Make sure you do the exact same on the second sleeve.
When everything is perfect, using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up).
See diagram below. For illustrative purposes only and not drawn to completeness or scale.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your cardigan is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve.
Fasten off.
Crochet the Neckline and Collar for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
Use the smaller hook size and turn the cardigan correct side out.
Step 1: Crochet around the neckline
Attach a matching yarn at the bottom of your front panel. Start with the side that works best for you.
ch1, sc around the entire front opening from one end at the bottom all around the neckline to the other end. Try to crochet evenly around the neckline. This is more important than the exact number of stitches around. You can crochet 2sc into larger spaces.
Fasten off.
Step 2: Crochet the collar
Place the cardigan, correct side in front of you. Place two stitch markers on each side where the shaping around the neckline starts. You collar will start from one stitch marker and finish around to the second stitch marker.
Attach yarn to one side at the stitch marker.
Row 1: ch2, hdc into 1st st, hdc around the top of the neckline all the way around towards the second stitch marker on the other side. Turn.
Row 2-7: repeat row 1
Feel free to crochet more or less rows for the collar. It will depend on your preference and gauge. When folded back Kiks + Jack’s collar width is approximately 2.5 inches.
Step 3: We suggest you block the collar (at some stage) to give it the shape and to keep it folded back.
Crochet the Button Holes for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
Use the smaller hook size.
We will crochet the button holes and the edge where you will sew the buttons.
Step 1: Work out which side you want buttons and which side you want button holes. Kiks + Jack Crochet wants buttons on the left side and button holes on the right side when the cardigan is worn.
Let’s start with crocheting the buttons side. Attach a yarn to the bottom of the side that you want buttons (we would attach it on the left side when worn).
Row 1: ch2, sc into second st, sc up to just below the collar. Turn
Row 2 – 6: repeat row 1
After row 6, our button edging is approximately 1.5 inches. This was a sufficient width to fit our brown buttons and give us closure after we crochet a similar width on the other side. You may need to crochet more or less rows to suit the width of your buttons and closure.
Fasten off.
Step 2: Identify the number of buttons you would like to use. Kiks + Jack Crochet wanted 5 buttons. Place one button at the top and one button at the bottom. Using a measuring tape, place your remaining buttons evenly between the two. Using locking stitch markers, mark the centre spots for each button so when you remove the buttons you now have stitch markers indicating where the buttons should be.
Step 3: Crochet the other side – the button hole side. Attach a yarn to the bottom of the other side (we would attach on the right side).
Row 1: ch2, sc into 2nd st, sc up to just below the collar (make sure it is the same distance as the button edging on the other side). Turn
Row 2-3: ch2, sc into 2nd st, sc to the end of row. Turn
Using a measuring tape and stitch markers, mark out where the button holes should be. They should directly match the stitch markers on the other side that are marking the buttons.
Row 4 (the button hole row): ch2, sc into 2nd st, sc into every st except where you need to make a button hole. When you need to make a button hole you ch2, sk2, then continue to sc in every stitch until you reach the next button hole where once again you ch2, sk2. Turn
Tip: Based on Kiks + Jack Crochet’s gauge and the size of our buttons, a chain 2 (then skip 2) was the appropriate button hole size so that the button wasn’t too tight or too loose going through the hole. After you have created one button hole, test it out. For example, you may find a chain 3 (then skip 3) is a better fit for your type of button.
Row 5: ch2, sc into 2nd st, sc into every st. When you get to a button hole space, you are crocheting into the space. Turn
In Kiks + Jack Crochet’s version we crochet 2sc into every button hole space.
Row 6: ch2, sc into 2nd st until the end of row. Turn
Fasten off.
Using a sewing needle and matching sewing thread, sew your buttons on the button side where you have placed stitch markers.
Crochet the Pockets for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
Use the larger hook size.
Plan out the colour of your pockets for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan. You may want a solid contrasting colour or you may want to incorporate mixed skeins. We mixed our skeins.
Chain and count the desired length of the pocket.
Kiks + Jack crocheted 20 chains to give us a pocket width of approximately 6 inches.
Row 1: ch2, 1dc into 3rd ch from hook, 1dc into next ch and across until end of ch. Turn
Row 2: ch2, 1dc into 2nd st, 1dc in each st across the row. Turn
Repeat row 2 until the pocket reaches the desired length.
Kiks + Jack crocheted row 2 until the pocket length is equal to approximately 5 inches.
Fasten off.
Remember to crochet two identical pockets for The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan.
Using a yarn needle and matching yarn, sew the pockets on to the cardigan making sure the pocket is straight and leaving the top open.
Fasten off.
Finish & Celebrate The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Petra Easy Scrap Yarn Crochet Cardigan and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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