The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress is a free crochet pattern below that is designed as a made to measure, size inclusive and easy crochet pattern. It is designed and written specifically for beginners and can be viewed below for free.
When Taylor Swift stepped out in a vibrant crochet dress last year it was great to see crochet take centre stage. It also set off a flurry of patterns that showed you how to copy the design exactly. We love the dress and loved all the excitement it generated. However it’s not something we would necessarily have in our wardrobe and it’s not entirely beginner friendly. Two things we insist on for any pattern that is going up on our blog.
So this is The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress! And it is really easy for three reasons. Firstly, we selected this gorgeous self striping yarn. We have used it before for one of our sweaters, The Rachel Striped Mock High Neck Crochet Sweater and we have our eye on a few other colour variations. The great thing about finding a yarn line like this, is it’s so easy for beginners to create something beautiful – because all the thinking in terms of colour palette is done for you. Also, you do not need to switch colours which means less weaving in! Easy! We just crocheted wherever the yarn took us and it took us somewhere beautiful!
The second reason this pattern is easy is due to the square neckline. When crocheting vertical (we crochet from top to bottom versus side to side) it can get less beginner friendly around the neckline. Keeping the neckline square shaped makes it easier for beginners as you simply reduce rows of equal length until you reach the other side and then crochet back up to the normal length.
Thirdly our stitch is super simple. It uses the beautiful granny stitch separated by regular basic stitches. It is enough of a stitch change to keep you excited and motivated, without requiring too much concentration. Also the granny stitch is so fast and so easy – we LOVE crocheting into spaces.
We just want to make it clear before you start – that the shape of the dress is oversized and loose. This is not designed to be a fitted dress and the sleeves are crocheted wide. If you are looking for a crochet dress that shapes in tighter at the bust and hips, this is probably not the pattern you are looking for (although we will work on it!). Finally we crocheted ours as a mini dress however this is totally customizable.
The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress is a made to measure pattern (versus commercially sized patterns XS, S, M etc). This means you are in charge of your measurements, your gauge, your yarn, your hook size and your own crocheting tension. Sometimes it’s a challenge to write made to measure patterns – but we really believe that if you are going to take all this time to make your own clothing, and every body shape is different, then lets try to write and design patterns that cater for that.
So let’s get started on The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress!
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DESCRIPTION of The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress
The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress is designed as a loose, oversized dress that does not shape in at the bust or hips. It uses primarily double crochets. The dress is crocheted vertically and not horizontally. This crochet dress is customizable in terms of length and is a made to measure pattern so gauge and dimensions are completely flexible.
We selected a self striping yarn to create a striped effect however using scrap yarn, alternative skeins of colour or a solid colour would work well too (there may be more weaving in). We designed this with wide sleeves and a simple edging around the neckline and base.
The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress is a made to measure pattern, size inclusive crochet pattern. It is designed for beginners, is fast and easy to crochet.
CROCHET MEASUREMENT & SIZES
The pattern instructions for The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress are made to measure, based on your required measurements. Please note that this pattern is a loose oversized relaxed fit design that is not shaped for the bust and hips.
Kiks + Jack Crochet will always try to write patterns that are “made to measure” (versus graded sized patterns) so that crocheters can get the wonderful benefits of making a garment that fits perfectly. However we do appreciate taking measurements can be inconvenient for some and have also provided standard measurements for those who wish to use it.
To use The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Finished Length Measurement: Measure from where you would like the dress to end up to the top of your shoulder. We crocheted this as a mini dress and it stopped mid thigh.
Finished Width Measurement: For this measurement you can use your bust or hips. Our hips and bust measurements are quite similar, so we used our bust measurement and increased it by 2 inches for positive ease. Alternatively if your hips are a lot wider than your bust, you may want to use your hip measurement. Measure around the fullest part of your bust and halve it. Do not draw the tape too tightly. Add 2-3 inches depending on how oversized you would like your dress. If you are using your hip measurement, you should also halve it, however you may not want to add any additional inches if this measurement already provides significant positive ease around the bust.
Our bust measurement is 32 inches. Half of this is 16 inches. We added 2 inches. Our Finished Width Measurement is 32/2 + 2 = 18 inches
Shoulder Strap Measurement: Measure from the edge of your shoulder to the start of your collar bone.
Neckline Depth Measurement: Measure how deep you would like your neckline. We did not want our neckline too deep and we measured 4 inches from the top of our shoulder.
Armhole Depth Measurement: Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to wrist (or where you would like the sleeve to end)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for the hips – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 33-34 (35-36, 38-40, 42-44, 46-48, 52-53, 54-55, 56-57, 61-62) inches or 83.5-86 (89-91.5, 96.5-101.5, 106.5-111.5, 116.5-122, 132-134.5, 137-139.5, 142-144.5, 155-157) centimetres.
If you would like to use standard sizing for armhole depth – then use approximately 6-6.5 (6.5-7, 7-7.5, 7.5-8, 8-8.5, 8.5-9, 9-9.5, 9.5-10, 10-10.5) inches or 15.5-16.5 (16.5-17.5, 17.5-19, 19-20.5, 20.5-21.5, 21.5-23, 23-24, 24-25.5, 25.5-26.5) centimetres
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimetres
Note: The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress pattern is designed as an oversized fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE for The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress
The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress is a made to measure pattern and can accommodate for different gauges, however we suggest you select a yarn and hook that has a similar gauge to ours.
Using a 5mm hook (US 8), approximately 14 stitches and 8 rows of double crochet in 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm).
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress
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Yarn brand: Ferris Wheel by Lion Brand Yarns. Weight 4/Medium/Worsted. 85g per skein and 270 yards (or 247 m) per skein. Color used is Cherry on Top.
You can also purchase Ferris Wheel by Lion Brand Yarns here on Amazon and we always check this for great deals and faster delivery.
Approximately 5 skeins or 420 grams and 1335 yards (or 1220 metres) used for Kiks + Jacks version (approximately XS) with a finished width of 18 inches and a finished length of 31 inches.
Crochet hook size 5mm (US size 8). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. We also love the slightly more pricey crochet hooks from Clover Crochet Hooks and the beautiful Furls Crochet Hooks (these are so stunning, we just love looking at them!)
Yarn Winder!!! (Our new LOVE). We have held off on a yarn winder for a long time. We love the idea of crochet being simple with just a hook and some yarn. However we decided to get this yarn winder, because it was affordable and we weren’t sure about investing in a super fancy one yet. We love it because it breathes life back into scrappy yarn lying around that looks messy. It’s simple to use and is holding up really well for us.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon.
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colourful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
hdc = half double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
ch sp = chain space (You are crocheting into the space created by the chain from the previous row and not the stitch)
BLO = back loop only
sl st = slip stitch (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. Pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook)
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise in this pattern, The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress, turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY OF CROCHET CONSTRUCTION for The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress
The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress is made by first crocheting a front panel. The panels are crocheted vertically (up and down rows) and not horizontally (side to side rows). We crochet the left shoulder strap, then reduce the rows to create the centre neckline, then increase the rows to crochet the right shoulder strap.
Next we will crochet a large rectangular back panel that is the same width and length as the front panel. We will then crochet two wide sleeve panels. We will seam the two panels together and the sleeve panels to the main panels to complete the dress. We will crochet a thin ribbed edge around the neckline.
This is a made to measure pattern meaning it is crocheted to your required dimensions. As a result you do not need to meet our gauge exactly however it is recommended to use a yarn and hook that is similar.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT
You may not publish or share any pattern on this website www.kiksandjackcrochet as your own including this pattern The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress. Except as permitted by the copyright law applicable to you, you may not reproduce or communicate any of the content on this website, including files downloadable from this website, without the permission of the copyright owner, Kiks + Jack Crochet.
You may not use any Kiks and Jack Crochet photo as your own photo.
You may crochet items to sell using The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress pattern upon permission by email at kiksandjackcrochet@gmail.com. Please link back to this post in exchange.
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS for The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress
Crochet the Front Panel Left Strap
Chain a length equal to your “Finished Length Measurement” (not width) and count the number of chains at the same time. You need to finish on a multiple of 3. If necessary increase the number of chains so that the total number of chains end on a multiple of 3.
Add one more chain. Turn
Kiks + Jack Crochet Example: Our desired “Finished Length Measurement” equals approximately 31 inches from top to bottom. We crocheted 101 chains to achieve 31 inches. 101 is not a multiple of 3 so we increased one more chain to 102. We added one more chain to reach a total of 103 chains.
Tip: Write the total number of chains down for reference later when you crochet the second back panel.
Row 1: ch1, sc in the 2nd st from the hook, sc in each st across until the end. Turn
Row 2: ch2 (does not count as a st), dc in 1st st, dc across the row to last st. Turn
Row 3: ch1, sc in 1st st, sc across the row to last st. Turn
Row 4: repeat row 2
Don’t skip this: Its a great time to do an intuitive check on the length. Sometimes the yarn stretches out more than you expect. It depends on the gauge. If you are happy with the length you can keep going. If you would like the length to be longer (or shorter) it is best to start again and increase (or decrease) the number of initial chains following the multiple of 3 + 1.
Row 5: ch3, dc in 1st st, *sk 2 st, 3dc in next stitch, repeat from * across ending with 2dc in last st. Turn
Row 6: ch3, *3dc in next sp between the dc clusters, rep from * across the row ending with 1dc in last st. Turn.
Note you are working into the space between the dc clusters and not into the stitches itself
Row 7: ch 3, 1dc in 1st st, *3dc in next sp between the dc clusters, rep from * across the row ending with 2dc in last st. Turn
Row 8: repeat row 6
Row 9: repeat row 7
Row 10: repeat row 6
Repeat rows 2 – 10 in that order until your total width is equal to your “Shoulder Strap Measurement”.
Finish at the bottom of your dress (it may not matter as you should have a rectangle).
Do not fasten off.
Kiks + Jack’s shoulder strap is equal to 4.5 inches and our length is equal to 31 inches. Our front panel currently looks a bit like this (illustrative only not to scale).
Crochet the Centre of your Front Panel
We assume you are now at the bottom edge of your dress and the next row is heading up towards the neckline.
The square neckline is created by shortening the vertical rows from here. We shorten it by the “Neckline Depth Measurement”. Kiks + Jack Crochet wants a neckline depth of 4 inches.
Measure your neckline depth from the top of the strap/dress and place a stitch marker at this point. If you are on a cluster row make sure the stitch marker is between the clusters. If you are on a single crochet or double crochet row, make sure the total number of stitches reduced from the top is a multiple of 3 and place your SM in the next stitch.
Tip: Write down the number of stitches or clusters as you will need this number when you crochet back up for the right shoulder strap.
Kiks + Jack Example: We measured 4 inches from the top of the dress down and placed a stitch marker between the 3rd and 4th cluster. If we were on a sc or dc row, we would have counted 9 stitches down (multiple of 3) and placed the SM on the 10th stitch.
See diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
We assume you are at the bottom of the dress and heading back up to the top. Follow your next row of stitch pattern and treat the stitch marker as your “last stitch” in the row. Therefore you are shortening the rows.
You should now be at the top of your dress and heading back down to the bottom. Crochet the next row of stitch pattern.
Continue to crochet the stitch pattern based on the shortened row for the full length of your centre neckline. This will create the square neckline. Calculate the full length of your centre neckline as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks + Jack Crochet Example |
| What is your “Finish Width Measurement“? (please read the section Crochet Measurements for important notes regarding Finished Width) | Ours is 18 inches |
| What is 2 x your “Shoulder Strap Measurement“ | 4.5 inches x 2 = 9 inches |
| How wide is the centre part of your dress panel and how long should you keep crocheting these shortened rows? | 18 inches – 9 inches = 9 inches ie. we crochet our shortened rows that create the centre panel for 9 inches. |
Here is an illustrative diagram using our measurements:
Important Tip: You can make intuitive checks at this stage. Keep placing the top up against you and if you want to make your dress wider or more narrow … you can still do this and now is the time to adjust manually. Sometimes we change our mind or our gauge is more stretchy than we expected. If you do decide to change the width of this centre neckline you will need to make the same adjustments when you crochet the back panel.
After you have crocheted the neckline (ours would be 9 inches) end at the top of your dress.
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Front Panel Right Strap
We assume you are at the top of your dress.
You should now have a panel that includes your left shoulder strap (ours is 4.5 inches) and a series of shortened rows to create your centre neckline (ours is 9 inches). You will now crochet the right strap.
To do this we have to chain a length equal to your “Neckline Depth Measurement” that takes us back up to the top of the dress. It will be the same number of stitches you reduced after you completed the left strap.
In our case it is 4 inches and we crocheted 9 chains (multiple of 3) . Here is a diagram to illustrate this.
Turn and start crocheting the next row back down the chain you completed. Remember to include the additional turning chains at the start of the row. Here is some help:
If your next row is a single crochet row: ch1, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc across the entire row to last st at the bottom of the dress. Turn
If your next row is a double crochet row: ch2 (does not count as a st), dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next ch, dc across the entire row to last st at the bottom of the dress. Turn
If your next row is a cluster row: ch3, dc in 4th ch from hook, *sk 2 st, 3dc in next stitch, repeat from * until you complete the chain and when you reach the main panel continue to crochet 3dc in between the clusters, continue your row as per normal. Turn
Repeat the stitch pattern until the strap on the right side is equal to your “Shoulder Strap Measurement” (and equal to the strap width on the left side).
Fasten off.
Crochet the Back Panel
We do not crochet a neckline for the back panel. It is effectively one rectangle.
Follow all the instructions from the section “Crochet the Front Panel Left Strap” however keep crocheting until the width is equal to your “Finished Width Measurement” and/or the same width as your front panel.
We like to place the back panel over the front panel to check it is the same width and length eg sometimes our crocheting tension can change from panel to panel and/or you made adjustments to your front panel.
In our example, our back panel is 31 inches long and 18 inches wide.
Fasten off.
Crochet the Sleeves (Make 2)
Chain a length equal to your “Arm Length” and count the number of chains at the same time. You need to finish on a multiple of 3. If necessary increase the number of chains so that the total number of chains end on a multiple of 3.
Add one more chain. Turn
Kiks + Jack Crochet Example: Our desired “Arm Length” equals approximately 21 inches. We crocheted 69 chains to achieve 21 inches. 69 is a multiple of 3 so we leave it as is. We add one more chain to reach a total of 70 chains.
Tip: Write the total number of chains down for reference later when you crochet the second sleeve panel.
Row 1: ch1, sc in the 2nd st from the hook, sc in each st across until the end. Turn
Row 2: ch2 (does not count as a st), dc in 1st st, dc across the row to last st. Turn
Row 3: ch1, sc in 1st st, sc across the row to last st. Turn
Row 4: repeat row 2
Don’t skip this: Its a great time to do an intuitive check on the arm length. Once again, if you would like the length to be longer (or shorter) it is best to start again and increase (or decrease) the number of initial chains following the multiples.
Row 5: ch3, dc in 1st st, *sk 2 st, 3dc in next stitch, repeat from * across ending with 2dc in last st. Turn
Row 6: ch3, *3dc in next sp between the dc clusters, rep from * across the row ending with 1dc in last st. Turn.
Row 7: ch 3, 1dc in 1st st, *3dc in next sp between the dc clusters, rep from * across the row ending with 2dc in last st. Turn
Row 8: repeat row 6
Row 9: repeat row 7
Row 10: repeat row 6
Repeat rows 2 – 10 in that order until the total width of your arm panel is equal to your “Armhole Depth Measurement” x 2. If you would like some positive ease around your armpit, then you can add another 1/2 – 1 inch.
You can also wrap it around your arm to test out if the sleeve panel can comfortably fit around your arm.
Fasten off.
Remember to make 2 sleeves.
Assembling The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a polished look.
We block our panels by pinning all the pieces on to an old yoga mat and manipulating the shape and edges so the front and back panel are similar and the two sleeve panels are similar. We then spray it with water focusing on the edges and ensuring it is well saturated. Do not remove the pins until the panels are completely dry.
Step 1: Seam the Front and Back Panel at the shoulder.
Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing together. With a yarn needle, seam the two panels together across the shoulders on the front panel starting from the edge and across the top.
Fasten off.
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam. Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Use a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (not to scale and for illustrative purposes only)
Do the same with the other sleeve on the other side.
Step 3: Seam the sides of the dress and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your dress is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve.
See second diagram below (not to scale and for illustrative purposes only)
Fasten off.
Crochet around the Neckline
Sometimes we like to use a smaller hook for necklines. It depends on the yarn and gauge. You may want to test out a smaller hook size for a few stitches.
Decide on the colour of your neckline edge. Using this colour attach to the side of your neckline.
Round 1: ch1, sc around the neckline evenly, sl st to join
Tip: Try to make sure the single crochets are evenly spaced and not too tight.
Round 2: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc around, sl st to join.
You can crochet another round if you would like a thicker edge on your neckline.
Fasten off.
Crochet around the Bottom Edge (Optional)
We did not crochet this step as we like the raw deconstructed edge at the bottom of our dress. Also, we used a self striping yarn so we had very little ends to weave in.
However if you would like to add an edge around the bottom of your dress (especially if you have many different coloured tails) you can follow the instructions used to crochet the edge around the neckline. We would use the edge to crochet over the tails.
Weave In & Celebrate The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Easier Swiftie Crochet Dress and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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