Looking for an easy crochet sweater pattern that is perfect for the changing seasons? The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater is a bright and lightweight long sleeve crochet sweater designed to carry you from the last days of summer into cozy fall days and through winter (under a crocheted cardigan of course!) This free crochet sweater pattern is made to measure, so you can use the yarn and crochet hook that work best for you without needing to swatch for a specific gauge. With its simple open stitch, relaxed fit, and cheerful stripes, we’re wearing this handmade sweater over shorts now, jeans soon and under our outerwear come the cold weather!
**UPDATE: We just made another version of this in a gorgeous sage wool bamboo blend. We added a contrasting ribbing to the bottom and if you want all the yarn details see our update in “Crochet Materials”. We love them both! Are you Team Bright or Team Neutral?
Sometimes we buy yarn with a certain design in mind, and sometimes we design something specifically to showcase a beautiful yarn. When it is the latter (like this project), we tend not to over complicate the pattern. Although, tbh, all our patterns are pretty classic because we are very much “classic sweater and jeans” kind of girls. We are obsessed with bamboo blend yarns and are on a mission to try them all. We have wanted to use this yarn for a long time. Some bamboo blends crochet a little more smoothly than others, and unfortunately, some of them split a lot… but we are so glad we ended up testing this one. The color palette is gorgeous, and you can find all the details under the section below, “Crochet Materials.”
Check out some of our other patterns using Bamboo blend yarns…love the drape?
The Eve Simple Spring to Fall Crochet Sweater
The Stella Flowy Mesh Cardigan
The Astoria Simple Lace Crochet Top (the blue version)
We will be honest! When one of us came up with the colors for this top… the other was a little apprehensive. But now that it is done… definitely both loving the end result. We were looking for colors that are unique and unexpected. We love a good natural color combo, but sometimes you want something fun and exciting! We got this sweater done in a few days because it was really awesome getting to the next pop of yellow. We highly suggest you try it and see if it works for you too! Pick a color combination that you have typically not worked with, and there is something about “I will just crochet to the next bright colored stripe to see what it looks like…” and before you know it, you have finished the sweater!
A little note from us: We truly want to keep our crochet patterns free and accessible to everyone. We cover the costs of running our website through ads and a community of crocheters who choose to support us with a coffee at https://ko-fi.com/kiksandjackcrochet. Every coffee means more to us than you probably realize. It keeps us motivated, inspired, and able to continue designing free crochet patterns for you. Thank you for being here, for crocheting our designs, and for helping us keep them free. It genuinely means the world to us.
Even if you choose more classic colors we hope this sweater becomes a staple in your wardrobe. Make it a little loose and over sized and we guarantee it will be a grab and go top when you don’t have time to think about your outfit. And what is it about crocheted handmade clothing? It just always looks unique, always starts a conversation and you feel great when you wear it out.
Ready to start your version of The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater?
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DESCRIPTION of The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater
The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater is a long-sleeve, over sized crochet pullover with a relaxed fit, classic neckline and subtle pops of color. Designed to be bright enough for the last days of summer but cozy enough to carry you into fall, this easy crochet sweater is a versatile addition to your handmade wardrobe. We love the combination of soft blue with a thin yellow stripe, but you can easily choose your own colors to make it your own.
The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater is made to measure, so you can use the yarn weight and crochet hook that work best for you without needing to match a specific gauge. The simple open stitch pattern works up quickly, while the ribbed cuffs add structure and a cozy finish to the long sleeves. Whether you are a beginner looking for an easy crochet sweater pattern or an experienced crocheter wanting a relaxed everyday piece, this free pattern is fun, easy and fast to make.
CROCHET MEASUREMENTS & SIZES for The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater
The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater pattern instructions are made to measure, based on your required measurements.
At Kiks + Jack Crochet, we focus on creating made-to-measure, size-inclusive crochet patterns rather than relying on standard commercially graded sizes (XS–5XL). This allows crocheters to enjoy the satisfaction of making a garment that fits perfect to your beautiful dimensions. We also understand that taking measurements isn’t always convenient, so we’ve included standard measurements for anyone who prefers to follow them instead.
To use The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater pattern you will need the following measurements and you should write them down for easy reference:
Chest/Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
Finished length: Measure from where you would like the sweater to end up to the top of your shoulder at your collarbone.
Armhole Depth: Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit. You may want to check that this measurement – when doubled – is as big as your upper arm circumference (around your bicep). Typically it is, however every body shape is different. If your upper arm circumference is larger, take this measurement instead.
Arm Length: Measure from armpit to where you would like the sleeve to end (we love our sleeves over sized).
Wrist Circumference: Measure from one point on your wrist all around your wrist loosely
Standard Measurements (For Reference)
If you would like to use standard sizing for the chest/bust – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) inches or 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127, 132-137, 142-147, 152-158) centimeters.
If you would like to use standard sizing for armhole depth – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 6-6.5 (6.5-7, 7-7.5, 7.5-8, 8-8.5, 8.5-9, 9-9.5, 9.5-10, 10-10.5) inches or 15.5-16.5 (16.5-17.5, 17.5-19, 19-20.5, 20.5-21.5, 21.5-23, 23-24, 24-25.5, 25.5-26.5) centimeters
If you would like to use standard sizing for arm length – then for XS (S, M , L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) use approximately 16.5 (17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5) inches or 42 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) centimeters
Note: The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater is designed as an over sized fit with significant positive ease.
CROCHET GAUGE
The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater is “made to measure” and can accommodate different crochet gauges. You do not need to swatch and match to our gauge exactly however we highly suggest for this pattern you use a yarn and hook of similar weight and size.
For our version of The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater we used a weight 3 yarn and a 4 mm hook.
CROCHET MATERIALS for The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater
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For the Bright Blue version we used Bamboo Pop by Universal Yarn. Weight 3/Light yarn. 100g and 292 yards (267m) per skein.
Kiks + Jack Crochet’s version of The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater has a finished width of approximately 19 inches and a finished length of 19 inches. We used approximately 4 skeins in total, or 1168 yards (or 1068 m). However due to the yellow stripe, we purchased 4 skeins of “Blue Whisper” and 1 skein of “Sunny”
For the Neutral Sage Green version we used Wool Pop by Universal Yarn. Its a Bamboo, Wool and Polyamide blend. Weight 3/Light yarn. 100g and 284 yards per skein
Other yarns that we would love to try with this pattern include:
Premier Cotton Fair: This is a weight 2 yarn, cotton blend and super budget friendly. We have worked with this yarn and it would give a slightly more lightweight sweater.
Wool Ease DK Lion Brand Yarns: This is also a weight 3 yarn and an acrylic wool blend and would make this sweater more cozy.
Crochet Hook (we used a 4 mm). We use many different crochet hooks and if you are looking for some great budget friendly ergonomic crochet hooks try these from Amazon. It comes in a set and the grip and the shape is amazing for beginner crocheters. We also love the slightly more pricey crochet hooks from Clover Crochet Hooks and the beautiful Furls Crochet Hooks (these are so stunning, we just love looking at them!)
Yarn Winder. We held off on a yarn winder for a long time. We love the idea of crochet being simple with just a hook and some yarn. However we decided to get this yarn winder, because it was affordable and we weren’t sure about investing in a super fancy one yet. We love it because it breathes life back into scrappy yarn lying around that looks messy. It’s simple to use and is holding up really well for us.
Measuring Tape. We use a super budget friendly measuring tape. Make sure it has cm and inches (not all patterns are written with both). We are always crocheting on the go so we like our tapes small and compact and we put one in our design area, one in our bag and one in our car. Retractable works best! We use these super cheap mini measuring tapes from Amazon
Stitch Markers. We use these locking crochet stitch markers from Amazon and these stitch markers that do not lock. They are cheap and colorful.
Blocking Pins. You should buy more pins than you think you need. If you are going to take the time to block don’t skimp on the pins. We like T shaped stainless steel pins that don’t rust when they get wet. We love these blocking T pins from Amazon and the tin means the pins don’t fall out on the floor.
Yarn Needle. Buy blunt needles with large eyes for yarn. We use these Yarn Needles because we like the convenient bottle, they are budget friendly and we get lots of them!
Scissors. We love these thread snippers because they are cheap, we get two of them AND they come with a case (some don’t). Don’t carry these without the case! After you use thread snippers you won’t want to snip with scissors.
CROCHET STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater pattern is written with US terms.
ch = chain (With one loop on your hook, yarn over and pull through the loop)
sc = single crochet (Insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
dc = double crochet (Yarn over and insert hook into desired stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all two loops)
edc blo: Extended Double Crochet Back Loop Only: (Yarn over, insert hook in back loop only, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops)
BLO = back loop only
ch-sp = chain space
tch = turning chain
st = stitch
sk = skip stitch
* = repeat the instructions following the * as directed
Note unless stated otherwise turning chains do not count as a stitch if there are 1 or 2 chains and the turning chain does count as a stitch if there are 3 or 4 chains.
SUMMARY of CONSTRUCTION for The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater
The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater is constructed from two panels, beginning with the back and then working the matching front panel from the bottom up. You will incorporate a different colored stripe. On the front panel you will measure out and crochet the neckline. Once both panels are complete, you will move on to the sleeve panels.
The sleeves being with a loose ribbed cuff and crocheted from the bottom up. We will show you how to expand the width to fit your arms. When you have finished the sleeves you will be joining the shoulders by seaming the front and back together followed by the sleeve panels. The sweater is finished with a ribbed neckline and a simple single crochet stripe at the base.
PERMISSIONS AND COPYRIGHT
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You may crochet items to sell using The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater pattern upon permission by email at kiksandjackcrochet@gmail.com. Please link back to this post in exchange.
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS for The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater
Important note! We added a ribbing on our Green Sage version. If you would like to do the same then start with the section “Crochet the Main Back Ribbing” directly below.
If you would like to keep it more simple and beginner friendly then we suggest you leave off the ribbing (like our bright blue version) and move directly to the next section “Crochet the Main Back Panel”.
Crochet the Main Back Ribbing (Green Sage version)
Start with Yarn A (eg sage)
ch 12
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch1, edc blo (see below) in each st across until end of row. Turn
Note: edc blo (Extended Double Crochet Back Loop Only) = Yarn over, insert hook in back loop only, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to HALF your “Chest/Bust Measurement” + 2-3 inches.
Count the number of rows (we crocheted 39 rows).
Do not fasten off.
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing using the working yarn. To calculate the number of single crochets you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks + Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your ribbing. Multiply by 2.5 | We crocheted 39 rows in our ribbing. 39 x 2.5 = 97.5 |
| Round to the nearest multiple of 6 or keep as is if already a multiple of 6 | Round to 96. |
| Add 2 more stitches | 96+2 = 98 |
Foundation Row: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc across the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
Row 1: ch3, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] into the 3rd st, *sk 2ch, 3dc in next ch, sk 2ch, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next st, rep from * across the row with 2 st remaining, end with a dc in last st. Turn
You can now continue to the next section “Crochet the Main Back Panel” however move directly to Row 2 and crochet Rows 2 – 9 in Yarn A. Next, change color to Yarn B (eg cream) and crochet Row 12, change color to Yarn A (sage) and crochet Row 13. ie. we only crocheted 9 rows of Yarn A (sage) for the first block of color to accommodate for the ribbing crocheted in Yarn A. After you have done this you can crochet as per normal, ie repeat rows 2-13 as per the directions below, until the back panel reaches a length equal to your “Finished Length Measurement“.
Crochet the Main Back Panel
Calculate the length of your foundation chain as follows:
| Halve your “Chest/Bust Measurement“ | Our chest/bust measurement = 32 inches around. Half our chest/bust measurement = 32/2 = 16 inches |
| Add additional 2-3 inches for significant positive ease (it will also increase in width depending on how stretchy your yarn is after a few rows). | 16 + 3 = 19 inches |
Start with Yarn A (eg blue)
Chain a length as calculated above counting the number of chains at the same time. Do not pull the chain too tight when you measure it.
Make sure the number of chains ends on a multiple of 6. If not, increase the number of chains so that you finish on a multiple of 6.
Add 2 more chains.
For example Kiks + Jack crocheted 83 chains to reach a total length of 19 inches as per our calculation. However 83 is not a multiple of 6 (it does not divide into 6 evenly). Therefore we increase the number of chains to a total of 84 by adding 1 more chain so that it is a multiple of 6. We then add 2 more chains to take the total to 86 chains.
Row 1: ch2 (counts as a st), [1dc, ch1, 1dc] into the 5th ch from hook, *sk 2ch, 3dc in next ch, sk 2ch, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch, rep from * across the row with 2ch remaining, end with a dc in last ch. Turn
Row 2: ch3, sk 2 st, *3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, rep from * to end, dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 3: ch3, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end, dc in top of tch. Turn
This is a good point to check that you are still happy with the width of your top before continuing. After 3 to 4 rows, hold the piece up against yourself to make sure the fit and width are working for you. If you are happy with it, continue crocheting as written. If you would like to adjust the width, it is best to start over and increase or decrease the number of starting chains, keeping the required stitch multiples in mind. These little fit checks are worth doing as you go, since yarn can stretch more or less than expected, and sometimes the fit we want changes once we see the piece taking shape!
Row 4 – 11: Repeat rows 2-3 in that order.
Change color to Yarn B (eg yellow)
Kiks + Jack Crochet Tip: There are many ways to change yarn colors. Recently we like to use the Fishermans Knot and you can watch a cute video of it here to see it in action. It’s reduced our weaving in by a lot!
Row 12: ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in 1st st, sc across the row (placing 3sc in the 3dc clusters and 3sc in [1dc, ch1, 1dc] clusters) and ending with an sc in the top of tch. Turn
Change color to Yarn A (eg. blue)
Row 13: ch3, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] into the 3rd st, *sk 2st, 3dc in next st, sk 2st, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next st, rep from * across the row, ending with a sk1, dc in last st. Turn
Repeat rows 2-13 following the stripe pattern, until the back panel reaches a length equal to your “Finished Length Measurement“.
Fasten off.
Crochet the Main Front Panel
If you added a ribbing, then repeat all the instructions under “Crochet the Main Back Ribbing” and “Crochet the Main Back Panel as instructed”.
If you did not add a ribbing, then repeat all the instructions under “Crochet the Main Back Panel”
Stop when the length equals your [“Finished Length Measurement” minus 2 inches]. If you want a deeper neckline, then instead of 2 inches, you can increase it to 3-4 inches.
Do not fasten off.
Important Tip: The instructions for the neckline is based on clustered rows so try to stop shortly after a striped row. We stopped 6 rows after the stripe, but stopping sooner works well too.
Measure the Neckline on the Front Panel
We will now measure out the neckline width on the front panel before we crochet it.
Measure 4 inches in from the left edge of the front panel and place a locking stitch marker in the centre of the closest cluster. Count the number of clusters between the edge of the panel and the stitch marker. This will be the start of your neck opening. Repeat the same on the right side of the front panel and place a locking stitch marker in the centre of the cluster.
Place the front panel up near your neck and check whether you need to make adjustments to the neck opening. If you would like the neckline to be tighter (and less “off the shoulder”) then move the stitch markers closer to your neck. If you would like the neck opening wider (and more “off the shoulder”), then move the stitch markers away from your neck. Note that the neckline will widen a little outwards as you crochet it. Also consider, you will be crocheting a ribbed neckline of approximately 1 inch.
Make sure you have marked out the same number of clusters on both sides and that the stitch markers are placed in the middle of the closest cluster.
For reference, Kiks + Jack crocheted a top with a total width of approximately 19 inches. We measured approximately 6 inches from each side as we wanted a close (but not super tight) neckline fit.
Crochet the Neckline on the Front Panel
Tip: As noted above the instructions below are based on clustered rows so its best to start the neckline shortly after a striped row. If you have to crochet a stripe during the neckline rows, you can crochet the striped single crochet row across starting and ending with sc, and ensuring 3sc per cluster.
Once you are satisfied with the neckline measurements and have marked it with locking stitch markers, we will now crochet the neckline. Pick up your working yarn.
Row 1: ch3, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster OR [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster (ie. take a look at what cluster is directly below and crochet the same cluster into the centre), repeat the pattern across (ie. crochet a 3dc cluster in the centre, if its a 3dc cluster below or a [1dc, ch1, 1dc] cluster in the centre if it’s a [1dc, ch1, 1dc] cluster below). End with 2dc in the st with st marker. Turn
Row 2: ch3, 3dc into centre dc of the next 3dc cluster OR [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster (once again take a look at what cluster is directly below). Place a stitch marker in the centre st or ch-1 sp of this first cluster. Repeat the pattern across (ie. crochet a 3dc cluster in the centre, if its a 3dc cluster below or a [1dc, ch1, 1dc] cluster in the centre if it’s a [1dc, ch1, 1dc] cluster below), ending with a dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 3: ch 3, 3dc into centre dc of the next 3dc cluster OR [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster (ie. take a look at what cluster is directly below and crochet the same cluster into the centre), repeat the pattern across (ie. crochet a 3dc cluster in the centre, if its a 3dc cluster below or a [1dc, ch1, 1dc] cluster in the centre if it’s a [1dc, ch1, 1dc] cluster below) ending with 2dc in the stitch where you placed the SM. Turn
Row 4: repeat row 2
Repeat row 3-4, until the entire front panel reaches a length equal to your “Finished length measurement” and the two panels are the same length on the left side.
Tip: You probably only need to crochet a few rows – for example we reached our Finished Length Measurement in 5 rows.
Before you crochet the right side of your front panel, place the front panel up against you and take a look at how the neckline sits on this left side. Check you are happy with the width and depth of the neckline. It’s best to make these intuitive checks and if necessary make adjustments, before you crochet the neckline on the other side.
Fasten off.
Attach yarn on the other side and repeat the instructions on the other side of the front panel.
Set aside and lets move on to the sleeve panels.
Crochet the Sleeve
Crochet the Sleeve Panel Ribbing
Start with Yarn A (eg blue)
ch 12
Based on our gauge this gave us a ribbing height of approximately 1.75 inches.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across until end. Turn
Row 2: ch1, edc blo (see below) in each st across until end of row. Turn
Note: edc blo (Extended Double Crochet Back Loop Only) = Yarn over, insert hook in back loop only, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops
Repeat row 2 until the total length of the ribbing is equal to your “Wrist Circumference Measurement” + 2 inches. Make sure it fits comfortably and is not too tight (its designed to be loose and over sized)
Count the number of rows (we crocheted 16 rows).
Do not fasten off.
Crochet the Main Sleeve Panel
You will now crochet down the long side of the ribbing using the working yarn.
To calculate the number of single crochets you will crochet down the long side of the ribbing calculate as follows:
| Calculation | Kiks + Jack Crochet Example |
| Count the number of rows in your ribbing. Multiply by 2.5 | We crocheted 16 rows in our ribbing. 16 x 2.5 = 40 |
| Round up to the nearest multiple of 6 or keep as is if already a multiple of 6 | Round up to 42. |
| Add 2 more stitches | 42+2 = 44 |
Foundation Row: Using the working yarn, ch1, sc across the ribbing the number of stitches you calculated above in total. Turn
In Kiks + Jack Crochet example above we will crochet 44 single crochets across the long side of the ribbing. We suggest using stitch markers to indicate the 1/4 marks to help you crochet evenly.
Row 1: ch3, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] into the 3rd st, *sk 2ch, 3dc in next ch, sk 2ch, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next st, rep from * across the row with 2 st remaining, end with a dc in last st. Turn
Row 2: ch3, sk 2st, *3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, rep from * to end, dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 3: ch3, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end, dc in top of tch. Turn
Row 4-5: repeat rows 2-3 in that order
Change color to Yarn B (eg yellow)
Note we only crocheted 5 rows for this first section as the ribbing added a width of our primary color (ie. blue)
Row 6: ch1, sc in 1st st, sc across the row (placing 3sc in 3dc clusters and 3sc in [1dc, ch1, 1dc] clusters) and ending with an sc in the top of tch. Turn
Change color to Yarn A (eg blue)
Row 7: ch3, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] into the 3rd st, *sk 2st, 3dc in next st, sk 2ch, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next st, rep from * across the row, ending with a sk1, dc in last st. Turn
At this point stop and measure the width of the sleeve panel. This sleeve panel needs to fit around the widest part of your arm plus 1-2 inches. You can use your armhole depth or you may prefer to use your bicep circumference (it will depend on your body dimensions). In order to expand the sleeve width we will now use a series of rows that we will label “Expanding Rows” – see below.
Expanding Row A: ch3, [dc, ch1, dc] cluster into 1st st, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the next 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row and at end, 4dcs at top of tch (first 3dcs will represent a 3dc cluster).
Expanding Row B: ch3, sk2, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row, ending with a dc in top of tch.
Expanding Row C: ch3, sk2, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row, ending with a dc in top of tch.
Expanding Row D: repeat Expanding Row B
Take another measurement of the sleeve width to gauge how much more you need to expand. You should do this every time you complete 4 of the Expanding Rows (in this case Expanding Row D) and consider the following 2 options:
OPTION 1: If you do NOT need to expand the width of the sleeve panel any more, then move back to crocheting the “regular rows” (see above in THIS section). Start with either row 2 (if your next cluster is a 3dc) or row 3 (if your next cluster is a [dc, ch1, dc]). After a total of 11 rows of the primary color (include expanding rows), single crochet the stripe (Row 6) followed by Row 7. Next, repeat rows 2-3. After another 11 rows of the primary color (include Row 7), you once again crochet Rows 6-7. ‘
Repeat this until the length of your sleeve panel reaches your “Arm Length Measurement”. Fasten off. We will check your sleeve length again under “Assembly”. Crochet two identical sleeve panels. Move on to the next section “Assembly”.
OPTION 2: If you DO need to expand the width of the sleeve panel more, then continue to crochet Expanding Rows E-G.
Expanding Row E: ch3, 3dc into 1st st, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row and at end, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] and 1dc in top of tch
Expanding Row F: ch3, sk2, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the next 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row, ending with a dc in top of tch.
Expanding Row G: ch3, sk2, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row, ending with a dc in top of tch.
Expanding Row H: repeat Expanding Row F
At this point, take another measurement and see whether you need to move to OPTION 1 (ahove) or OPTION 2. Note: you should now be on your 9th row of your primary color (eg. blue) and regardless you need to crochet your stripe (eg yellow) after the 11th row. If you need to expand again (you are still on Option 2) then continue on and follow Expanding Rows I to L below:
Expanding Row I: ch3, [dc, ch1, dc] cluster into 1st st, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row and at end, 4dcs at top of tch (first 3dcs will represent a 3dc cluster).
Expanding Row J: ch3, sk2, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row, ending with a dc in top of tch.
Change color to Yarn B (eg yellow)
Expanding Row K: ch1, sc in 1st st, sc across the row (placing 3sc in 3dc clusters and 3sc in [1dc, ch1, 1dc] clusters) and ending with an sc in the top of tch. Turn
Change color to Yarn A (eg blue)
Expanding Row L: ch2 (counts as a st), *sk 2st, 3dc in next st, sk 2ch, [1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next st, rep from * across the row, ending with a sk1, dc in last st. Turn
Expanding Row M: ch3, sk2, *[1dc, ch1, 1dc] in next ch-1 sp of cluster, 3dc into centre dc of the 3dc cluster, rep from * to end of row, ending with a dc in top of tch.
At this point, take another measurement and see whether you need to move to OPTION 1 (above) or stay on OPTION 2 (below).
If you are on Option 2 and need to expand again then repeat Expanding Row A – D, then take another measurement. If you need to expand again, repeat Expanding Row E-H. Remember once you have reached your desired sleeve width move back to Option 1 until your sleeve length reaches your “Arm Length Measurement”.
Assembling The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater
Kiks + Jack Crochet highly recommends blocking all your panels before assembly, especially your sleeve panels where you have increased the width. Place pins on the expansion rows to smooth out the increases. Blocking your panels will set your panels to the shape and size you want and give it a professional look.
Step 1: Seam the shoulders together
Lay your front and back panels flat with the right sides facing together. Seam across each shoulder from the outer edge to the edge of the shoulder on the front panel, leaving the centre section open as the neckline.
Fasten off.
Step 2: Line up your sleeves at the midway point to the shoulder and seam.
Open up the two panels (now seamed at the shoulders) so that the right side is facing the floor and the wrong side is facing upwards. Take one of your crocheted sleeves and fold it in half lengthways. Place a stitch marker at the top of your sleeve at the centre point. With the wrong side of the sleeve facing up, attach this stitch marker to the left edge of the left shoulder seam.
Do the same on the right side with the other sleeve.
Customization Tip: It is a good time to check the length of your sleeve. You can “seam” it with a few stitch markers to the main panel. Try it on.
If you would like your sleeves longer, simply undo the final knot where you fastened off, reattach matching yarn, and crochet a few additional rows to reach your desired length. If you prefer them shorter, undo the final knot and gently frog (pull back) the last few rows until you’re happy with the length. Just be sure to make the same adjustment to the second sleeve so they match perfectly.
When everything is perfect, using a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sleeves to the main panels (wrong side facing up) – see first diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Step 3: Seam the sides of the sweater and the bottom of the sleeve together. Fold the two panels and sleeve panels at the seamed shoulders so that your sweater is facing wrong side out. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, seam the sides of the two panels together up to the armpit and along the bottom of the sleeve. See second diagram below (for illustrative purposes only).
Fasten off.
Step 4: Crochet the Edging around the Base (optional for the Bright Blue version)
We crocheted this edging around our original bright blue version although it is still optional. The green sage version already has a ribbing.
Turn the sweater right side out.
Attach Yarn A (eg blue) to the side of the base.
Round 1: ch1, sc in the first st, sc evenly around the base (approximately one stitch width apart), sl st to 1st st to join.
Change color to Yarn B (eg yellow)
Round 2: ch1, sc into each and every stitch, sl st to 1st st to join.
Fasten off
Crochet the Neckline Ribbing (optional)
Prefer following along with a video tutorial? Watch the full step-by-step crochet tutorial below to see exactly how to crochet the neckline ribbing. The written instructions are outlined below this embedded video.
The written pattern and step-by-step instructions are below.
Keep the sweater right side out. Attach Yarn A (eg blue) to neckline near shoulder seam.
Note we used a contrasting color ie. Yarn B for our sage version.
Foundation Round: ch1, sc in the 1st st, sc evenly around the neckline, at end sl st to join to 1st st.
Row 1: ch 6. Turn
Row 2 (working back down the chain): sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (total 5 st). At the base, skip the stitch directly below the ch 6, sl st in next sc, sl st again in next sc . Turn
Row 3 (working back up the ribbing): bring working yarn to the left of and under the hook and towards the back, sc in BLO of first 4 stitches, sc through both loops of last st. Turn.
Row 4: ch1, sc in BLO of each st across (5 st), at the base sl st in next sc, sl st in next sc. Turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 in that order all around the neckline. When you finish the last row (when the two ends can meet), fasten off with a long tail and seam to the first row with a yarn needle.
Finish & Celebrate The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater
Weave in all your ends.
Congratulations you have finished The Frankie Simple Striped Crochet Sweater and we hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern.
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